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Making a fox-proof run

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  • Making a fox-proof run

    It is looking like I might be moving the hens from the garden to a landshare lottie plot! Am going to see the owner tomorrow for a proper look and chat so trying very hard NOT to get my hopes up!! But if all goes well, we will be increasing our flock from 2 (we lost one last week) to several hens Our agreement is that I will save up to buy a bigger hen house (ours will only accomodate 4-5 large hens) and dh will take the existing run, make it bigger and fox proof it.

    I know we need weldmesh but what is the best thickness to get? Currently we have a run with a wire/onduline roof and plan to keep that plus make the run longer to accomodate more hens. The hens are also currently guarded by my fierce BC male dog who won't be able to come with me to the lottie so we want to make the run as secure as possible - though I realise that nothing is 100% secure! So can anyone keep me a rough guide to how best to make the run fox-proof?

    **trying very hard not to giggle with excitement**

    Bec

  • #2
    I like that run!

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    • #3
      Thanks. We call it Beak House!

      Solid floor (so it can't be dug into - or knowing our chickens, out of!) Brick or paving paths around it for the same reason. Small weldmesh, mesh roof and a sloping corrugated see through roof on that to keep the rain off (which means it smells less!) The roof stops climbing creatures - foxes can climb! - also keeps out ferrets, mink, all the other things we haven't thought of. They have plenty of places to hide from the sun, get away from each other, things to do etc. and they also get let out - into a fenced area - when we are in the garden. I'm neurotic about foxes - you can see them in the fields round here in broad daylight. But I think we have a duty of care to our chickens so we do our best.
      Whoever plants a garden believes in the future.

      www.vegheaven.blogspot.com Updated March 9th - Spring

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      • #4
        our run has paving slabs all the way around the outside and all away around the inside of the run. We have had foxes on top of the hen house at night but not one has been able to get in. cross fingers

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        • #5
          Went to the potential hen keeping plot today and it looks perfect - friendly people Hedge at the back of the plot and a tree close by which will provide some shade. Water within easy reach , plot already fenced off with rabbit netting (though it is a shared plot so no division between).

          As dh is very busy at the mo (thankfully as a new business since redundancy last year) I have been looking at ready built houses and runs. I love the house we have (dh and fil made it) but it was made to fit our garden, is very strong with weldmesh/onduline roof but I think honestly would only really take 4 hens and dh just doesn't have the time to make another one. What do you think of this one I am looking at the large combo with potentially adding an extra 1m run. Suitable for 8? Could anyone recommend anything better?

          If i stood the house and the edges of the run on paving slabs would that be good enough?

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          • #6
            just got round to measuring our current hen house and run to compare against one in above post (see link): house is bigger than ours as you would expect (well hopefully expect if they have done their maths right!) but the run is less than half the size of ours and even with the extension it would be smaller! How on earth could that run accomodate 8 hens comfortably?!

            Pads4pets have this one and I have seen recommendations for this company... apparently to accomodate 7 hens (just going to do the maths against what we already have)...

            maybe I should just get dh to make one..... I can get the materials, I just need his time..... would fit what I want though... but when? ugh!

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            • #7
              It doesn't look a whole lot bigger than the other one, just has space underneath the house as well (which is good as they need somewhere to shelter from rain and sun). Is an electric fence not an option? It has the advantage of being moveable so the hens get fresh ground and you can buy a smaller house to sit within it.

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              • #8
                I discarded the electric fence option as I can't be at the lottie all the time and probably won't be there at "bedtime" so want the chickens to take themselves to bed and generally be in a safe-as-possible run - there are foxes at this site so don't feel I can risk an un-enclosed run...

                am now pondering a converted shed (maybe split so I have a little storage for feedbins and tools) with a run off that...
                Last edited by becslb; 08-07-2010, 06:32 PM.

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                • #9
                  Electric fence is probably more predator proof than anything else you might consider. Building a run is always going to get you a lot more useful space (and personal stisfaction) than any other option.
                  Unless you can guarantee a 'letting out' visit of an hour or so EVERY DAY (well maybe miss the occasional day in the worst weather) no commercially made run will be comfortably big enough for more than about half the number it is sold as suited for.
                  Flowers come in too many colours to see the world in black-and-white.

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                  • #10
                    I too think that an electric fence is the best option. Foxes are agile, wily and persistent - a zap from a fence is probably the only thing that will seriously keep them away. You just need to check it once a day and change the battery now and then. You can get ones 6 foot high (anything too low and a dog can get over it (I 've been told...)

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                    • #11
                      mmhhh... food for thought! I need to find out more about electric fencing and batteries etc... but will certainly give it some consideration

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                      • #12
                        Originally posted by jessmorris View Post
                        I too think that an electric fence is the best option. Foxes are agile, wily and persistent - a zap from a fence is probably the only thing that will seriously keep them away. You just need to check it once a day and change the battery now and then. You can get ones 6 foot high (anything too low and a dog can get over it (I 've been told...)
                        Not many dogs will jump over without 'investigating' first, and if they sniff too close they will get zapped, and never go close enough for a second trial. What you need to be sure of with electric fence is that it is too high for chooks to fly 'clear' over (the top tends to be too flimsy for them to get tempted to land on the way over), so they don't go wandering off outside its protection!
                        One way or another make sure the lowest strand doesn't get anything touching it from ground level (wet twigs, grass growing or similar) but it needs to be low enough that if foxy decides to burrow under, he will touch it when he starts digging (most do quite nicely if the lowest 'live' wire is 4 or 5 inches from the ground, which should make it hedgehog-safe.)
                        Flowers come in too many colours to see the world in black-and-white.

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                        • #13
                          Hello we are finally nearing the point where we can move our hens to our lottie plot it's taken a while as dh has been so busy and we literally have had an hour here and an hour there to do stuff. Just a couple of questions if you wouldn't mind?

                          1. we are converting an old playhouse to the hen house - could we get away with using an old wooden shoerack (ikea!) for perches or would a proper purpose built perch be better?

                          2. with the recent frosts, the current water supply has been freezing over - not a huge problem now as it is just outside our door and we sort it as we let the hens out each morning but at the lottie I am intending to leave the pophole open (while I save up for a automatic doo-dah) so I won't need to be there v early to let them out - is there anything I can do to prevent the water from freezing over?


                          becs xx

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                          • #14
                            How think are the rails of the shoe rack? I've a bit of 2" x 1" batton for a perch - with the corners sanded.. I think the ideal width is around 2" - as they roost on their breastbone.

                            If you make them, it's a good idea to make them removeable too - as their a hiding spot (underneath and in the joins/corners) for red mite.

                            You can buy those little battery heated wraps.. but I went for a 6l drinker - and due to the depth of water, it's not frozen yet, nor has the bit around the cil that they drink from. It's off the floor, suspended from the roof though.. mine are at home though, so I don't really have a similar problem (until the depths of winter i presume!!)

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                            • #15
                              I think the rails are too close together and too thin.... ok.. that solves that dilemma... we diy! lol!

                              I might have a look for the heated wraps - we have a large drinker but in the depths of last winter it did freeze solid if we forgot to bring it in at night. I did wonder if something like cider vinegar might stop water from freezing...

                              thank you

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