Perch query ! (length vs width of coop).

[chris]

I'm building a new coop shortly, as I'm planning on moving the position of my chickens slightly, to allow me to build a sort of aviary type run.

I've basically a metre width wise where I'd like to place the coop. Still trying to decide if I should make the coop ~70cm wide and have a ~30cm nestbox on the side, to save me opening the coop up every morning to collect eggs (although, I tend to peek in anyway to check on things/tidy up as required) or just go the full length and build nest boxes inside. Anyway, diff matter [side note, mmm thinking about it I could rotate the orientation! - aha!]

I'm building this coop in mind that I may get at least another 1 hen, or maybe a couple of bantam hens - that's still up in the air. With this in mind, I'd like to maximise on perch space. I've read all sorts of recommendations from 6" per bird, up to 15" per bird. I think my perch at the mo is roughly 2.5' for 3 normal sized hens. Their seems to be pretty much a third left of it with them all sat side by side.. shall have to measure in the morning.

I'm just wondering if I should go width ways across with two perches, or the whole length way with one, and perhaps I could 'T' a section off too? That would solve the problem of distance between perches and trying to squeeze two in in just 70cm... hrm. Would 1m of perch be enough for 3/4 normal sized hens and two bantams? I'm just rambling now........

[polo]

Well Chris - mine have 2 separate perches of 1 metre each (for 9 hens) and on most nights there are seven on one (daft things) and two one the other!

I think technically 1 metre would be enough but maybe two perches would give them the choice of where to roost?

Must see how you get on - I'm planning to build a new smaller coop out of plywood in the other run so any hints and tips would be welcome!

Polo

[chris]

Planning on using plywood here too. Just trying to think of the best way.. I think I might build a frame out of 2x1 batons, or simialr - maybe 1x1, will have to check the thickness of the plywood in B&Q - that's the only place that has a saw and will cut the plywood for me, as I don't have nice tools like that I think it was 18mm.

Just playing around with the numbers, if I do as above and have the coop lengthways in, rather than sidways on (erm, come again?) I can fit more perching space in there.

Anyway, if I build the frame, I can then screw the plywood onto the frame - although I was trying not to build a frame as I don't want any hidey holes for mites! We'll see.. I'll post my progress when I get started for you

[polo]

I must go and look at my friends coop - they built it themselves and its very very nice - I dont think it has a frame from what I remember. I think its a basic box with the sides and floor screwed together and the floor and the onduline roof keep it in shape if you get what I mean.

They also have it built up on so the door opens at chest height so its really easy to clean out - no lip on the door so you can sweep it out. I should ask them if I can post a photo on here cause its great.

See what I can do..

[chris]

That'd be great. I'm just not sure how stable plywood screwed into its self would be without something to brace it together? I intend on either making the roof open, hinged or the whole front of the coop so it can be swept out as you say.

[Nicos]

I recall reading a while ago to allow 12" perch per normal sized hen and 8" for a bantam.
However,one of our 2 x 6ft perch collapsed when we were away for Xmas and when we got back in the evening we noticed there were 3 normal sized and 9 banties all lined up on a 6ft perch...and a bit of room to spare.
I know they huddle up more in winter, and that'd probably be too close on a hot summers night...but it goes to show doesn't it???

I think a bit of extra distance is always helpful so that the lowest in the pecking order can get a bit further away from the others

[chris]

Just popped to b&q to look at the plywood. The 18mm thick stuff is very heavy, so I'm not sure how just screwed end on into each plywood plank doesn't either separate the layers, or hold together ?

Onduline isn't strong, mine flexes a lot so wouldn't be able to hold board that heavy together.

I think batons would be needed on 18mm to make up for the weight, and for 12mm wise, to not split the plywood.

Be interested in how that coop is put together, Polo !

I need to build in my garage and then move to where it's going to be, so mine needs to be able to be moved and not fall apart

[polo]

I'm on it. Will go and have a good look and see if I can get lots of photos.

Might email them to you separately if there's lots of random pictures of corners and joints etc unless anyone else is interested?

Polo

[Bramble-Poultry]

i recently built a wood fired clay oven for someone and the base was made from 18mm plywood. each joint at the corners was just butted up and screwed together with 50mm drywall (the black ones) screws as they have good grip and are thin so dont split the wood - if concerned about splitting, you can predrill the holes with a 4mm drill bit first.

the base (1m x 1m square) then supported a 2" layer of sand, 2 layers of brick paviors and a clay oven dome weighing in at around 75kg on its own. Estimated weight on the plywood base was approx 300kg. all this weight was taken on the hase board which was only held onto the plywood frame by 20 x 50mm screws.

i personally reckon it would be strong enough to support a chicken house using that method, the trick to stopping it split is to ensure that the wood doesnt get saturated by water, so make sure (as far as possible) that there are no expeosed edges facing upwards to catch the water and also give the whole thing a good dose of preservative before putting it together

hope this helps

Mike

[polo]

thanks Mike, going to give it a shot!

Polo

[chris]

I'm on it. Will go and have a good look and see if I can get lots of photos.

Might email them to you separately if there's lots of random pictures of corners and joints etc unless anyone else is interested?

Polo

Yeah - cool my forum username at gmail.com! Thank you

[chris]

i recently built a wood fired clay oven for someone and the base was made from 18mm plywood. each joint at the corners was just butted up and screwed together with 50mm drywall (the black ones) screws as they have good grip and are thin so dont split the wood - if concerned about splitting, you can predrill the holes with a 4mm drill bit first.

the base (1m x 1m square) then supported a 2" layer of sand, 2 layers of brick paviors and a clay oven dome weighing in at around 75kg on its own. Estimated weight on the plywood base was approx 300kg. all this weight was taken on the hase board which was only held onto the plywood frame by 20 x 50mm screws.

i personally reckon it would be strong enough to support a chicken house using that method, the trick to stopping it split is to ensure that the wood doesnt get saturated by water, so make sure (as far as possible) that there are no expeosed edges facing upwards to catch the water and also give the whole thing a good dose of preservative before putting it together

hope this helps

Mike

Thanks Mike - I was wondering about that (just PM'd you actually - so ignore that now ). I initially was going to creocote, then treat any exposed edges with a PVA or similar solution to repel water. Just going to work out the costs now, it comes in widths of 607mm, which is much less than I though, so I could go with that for the width/depth of the new coop now... Originally I thought it came in massive sheets - something like 4x2m heh.

[chris]

Just so everyone knows - Mike suggested that shuttering plywood is a good alternative to ply, cheaper because it's been used/intended to use to mould concrete. Anyway, on his suggestion I popped down to my local builders merchant who had loads of different plywood. The shuttering ply was £25 for a sheet of 2440mm x 1220mm (8' x 4'). That was perfect for my size, so I got them to cut it down the middle, then in half again giving me 4 bits of plywood, each 4' x 2'. I got them then to cut one of the pieces in half again, so I had the two ends - pretty much 2' x 2'.

Started on the new coop this evening, but with the garage a BOMB SITE, and no lighting in there I had to call it a day. On your suggestion, polo I've made it hinged so it opens out with no lip.

Some pics:







This will eventually sit on a frame, at waist height I think as similar to your friends, polo.

Still unsure if I'm going to build a nestbox section inside, or a seperate nestbox unit to attach onto the side of it. So far though, this gives them twice the perch space from rough calculations. Going back to the nestboxes, if I go for internal, I may just do a temp one like I have with my current coop here (a bit of decking, with 3 bits of wood screwed on to make two separate sections):



Probably going to stick the pophole ((may leave it open all the time, again not decided - this coop will be in a proper, enclosed fox proof run) - like Flummery's) on the right hand side, when viewed front on, if the nest box will be on the outside, that'll be left hand side I guess. The roof will be onduline again, and covered in mesh underneath, but as this is much more "sealed" I'll probably add either some vent holes covered in mesh, or maybe make one of those slidey vents... I'll probably go with 3 vent holes at the top front face maybe a couple of inches from the roof.

Back to the shuttering ply - I asked about it, and it's WBP (weather/boil proof (boil?!)), but was told to seal the edges, they suggested PVA, which I had already thought of. Depending on how much time I have, I may make some window frame things to stick on the outside, to paint and match it to the little ones wendy house.. wow sad!

[Bramble-Poultry]

looks sturdy enough. cant wait to see photos of its occupants too!

[polo]

Wow - you don't hang around do you...looking good! Also nice to know you can 'boil' your hen house if needed! ;-)

Polo