Just starting out - What do I need and whats a waste of money?

[chris]

Mines in the toughs - because I forgot to raise the frame bits for the peaks! (oops). It's in a covered run though, so it's not too bad.

My former one I did in the peaks - and I also siliconed them in.

[Mikey]

Cheers, I know I should go through the peaks, but it makes it harder to make it stable surely?

I thought that if I siliconed in the trough, then that would be ok.

[chris]

Well mine is stable, and I'd left it out in the rain before - the inside was dry.. I'd say it was fine (because mine is )

I only used the peaks last time, as there were already batons present in the bike shed I made into a coop

That said... going through the peaks in the clear roofing I have has caused a few issues - on places where it doesn't meet exactly, it's bowed the roofing down and slightly disrupts the flow of water down the gradient. It can pool there.

[Mikey]

I'm trying to avoid cross battening my chook frame (to keep weight down, as its mobile), so will be only able to fix the onduline every 900mm or so. I thought by fixing through the peaks at this interval it might make it unstable whereas by fixing through the trough it would get a more secure hold, but I would silicon the screws in to restrict the passage of water into the frame. I don't want to be making this again in 12 months time!!

[chris]

I'll measure the gaps I've got between mine - wickes do have a tech sheet though that advises the minium fixing distances recommended so it doesn't sag... they may have it online too..

[Suechooks]

If you don't support it every 18" it'll sag - believe me I know from experience! My original coop was professionally made and didn't have enough roof supports. It buckled in warm weather and leaked badly. My second one was made by the same company and 2 years on the supports were every 15".

[Hilary B]

Yep, Onduline is great stuff, but it WILL sag if inadequately supported. The steeper the slope the larger the intervals you can get away with (but in practice the horizontal distance between supports will be about the same regardless).
If you fasten through the peaks (as is proper) you need to ensure that you don't make a dent where the fastening is, and I would creocote any timber that will be in direct contact with it. The main difference between Onduline and roofing felt is that Onduline doesn't get supported at all points; I really cannot imagine that the contact points are any less attractive to red mite than perch ends....

[Newtothis]

Wow! Looks like I started a discussion there....
Are you all talking about clear onuline for the roof? Would this be too bright for the chooks on the perch? I can only find black at my local DIY place( although that is closing down soon!)
So I don't need a ply roof under the onduline one then? is it the same for nest box roofs?

David

[polo]

Hi David, The onduline is solid black which is preferable - you can keep the nest boxes nice and dark and it's strong if supported.. You don't need ply under the roof although I would recommend you put a sheet of fine mesh underneath attached to the top of the 'walls' - this stops any rodents getting in. You may need to put ply on the top of nest boxes if they are stuck on the side of the coop as hens need ventilation above their heads hence the onduline but if they have ventilation lower down it will cause drafts and possibly illness.

[Hilary B]

Onduline isn't clear, it is the same shape as the clear stuff, but is made of bitumen and something to give it a bit of strength (same principle as roofing felt, but much stronger). It usually comes in black, red and green, but the red or green is just a coloured layer added to make it look nice.
Nestboxes need to be dark inside, I would tend to just use ply for the roof, but don't forget the creocote!

[Mikey]

I went to have a look at the Orduline over the weekend and came to the same conclusion, it will not hold its own weight over a span. I was hoping to not add any further weight to the frame if could help it, as its heavy enough for two to lift as it is. I've decided I'm going to put the clear stuff on top instead, as its the run I'm covering not the coop.

[chris]

I've used the clear stuff for the roof of mine, Mikey. Wickes well the smaller stuff (troughts and peaks not as high/low) which seemed to be lighter when I was messing around with the sheets.

I did use the proper fixing for those mind, as they were cheap and it was easier hammering in whilst balancing on top of my run, rather than messing around with a screwdriver/drill

[Newtothis]

Thanks Polo for clearing that up. I'll use the black stuff for the roof then and top the nest boxes with ply.
I'll take some photos when I get going and try and put them on here( or maybe a new thread?)
Thanks again


David

[BUFFS]

if you design your coop youself,you could use one or two of the 2ft x2ft plant trays on the floor,covered with newspaper,they just need lifting out each day and tipping onto the compost bin,especially if you have a drop down hinged front,my average clean out time and food top up is about 5min,so much easier than trying to scrape it all up off the floor,anyway it works for me,with all the rain we keep getting i am now looking forward to next year,cant be any wetter than this one,i am soaked again just doing them this morning,but they dont seem to mind the rain,probably got used to it.........daft as they come..

[Newtothis]

Good idea Buffs. I was thinking of using newspaper under the perch anyway. The tray should keep it neat.