Dahlia Tubers

[nick the grief]

In answer to your question Simon, there are several thisngs you can do with your stored tubers

1. Replant them as is
2. Split them & plant the sections
3. Start them into growth & take cuttings


Option 1

You can start them off is trays and replant but the get bigger each year and quickly become unmanagable. Eventually they will deteriate like a lot of plants that are old & big (Iris's for example).

Option 2

If you want to split them all you need to do is to cut the "root" mass into section with a very sharp knife and then dudt the cut surfaces with Sulphur powder, this helps to heal the wound & prevent infection. Once this has drief off, you can set the sections in trays of compost and plant out as normal. When you cut the tubers you must have a peice of the stem attached as the shoots come from the base of the stem & not the tubers, these are mearly food storage for the plant (like a potato). If there is now eye in the section of stem it may not shoot so it's probably best to set up all peices & plant the ones that are shooting.

Option 3

This is the method that I use as I usually need around a 100 plants. what you do is plant the tuber in seed tray of compost, & water it with warm (not boiling) water, this will help soften the "bark" and hel the sew shoots to break thru. Then if possible givv it some bottom heat to get things moving. Soo you'll get shoots coming from the tuber & when they have 3 pairs of leaves cut them off just above the bottom set of leaves,these will then shhot & give you 2 more cutings in a couple of weeks. The cutting you trim below a pair of leaves then remove these leaves & I dip the ends into Hormone rooting powder more for the fungicidal qualities & cos it makes me feel better pu the cuttings into an open compost. I use 1 part compost 1 part Perlite & 1 part sharp sand. It needs to be free draining otherise they'll rot. then cover them over with either a propagator top if they are in a tray or a plastic bag if they are in a pot. Give them some bottom heat if poss & when the tips look nice & fresh green, you can bet they are rooted (usually 2-3 weeks) then pot them up 1st into 3.5" pots then 5" then the garden



If you've got names for them don't forget the labels!!!


Also there is a fourth option, what you do is take more cuttings than you need (don't we all!) And when you've planted out the ones you want the ones that are lef in the 5" pots you can plant in a spare bit of ground in the pots and put them in rows about 1 foot between rows & 6" between pots. let the grow dtraight up & flower (to make sure that the label is correct) & then remove all the other flowers. feed them about 1 or twice a week with tomato fertiliser then about october, lift them pots & all and trim back some of the foiliage. put them in your greenhouse on there sides & let them dry out. These are whats called Pot Tubers and will start into growth quicker than a "field" tuber but won't give you so many cuttings. you can get more of them in a tray however. you take your cutings for the next year from these & consign your old oes to the compost heap or give them away.

Hope that answers everything Simon, time for the second cuppa now

[Simon Kendrick]

You are a star Nick. That is so helpful, can't thank you enough. After that reply, never mind a cuppa, you deserve something a bit stronger. Allow me......you enjoy a fine malt?

[smallblueplanet]

nah - he's tea-total simon! ;-)

[smallblueplanet]

I'm starting to worry about our Bishop tubers - how long 'til some sign of life is seen? They're in compost in an unheated greenhouse.

[bramble]

Sbp, Mine are in an unheated greenhouse also and theres not a sign of life either.

[smallblueplanet]

Oh G*d they're both gonna's!

[nick the grief]

Fear not SBP. I've got some that have been on the heated bench since January & they are only just starting to shoot. If you can try spraying them Or Wartering them if you have to with some warm but not boiling water. This may help soften the bark & start them off. They usually take about 2-3 weeks to wake up if you've had them is peat for some time. Yours have only just gone in so they will probably be making root first then will burst forth soon, especially now we are getting some warm bright weather

[smallblueplanet]

.....Yours have only just gone in so they will probably be making root first then will burst forth soon, especially now we are getting some warm bright weather

Phew!!!!! I shall hold you to that nick.



ps only Moorland Gold, mixed in used for seedlings, here - I hope the 'I can still see pieces of tree' multi-purpose stuff will be okay!?

[nick the grief]

ps only Moorland Gold, mixed in used for seedlings, here - I hope the 'I can still see pieces of tree' multi-purpose stuff will be okay!?

It will be fine SBP. I use the old compost from my Chrysanths. The Tuber it'self is a storage organ for food for the plant & You only want it to start shooting so you can take cuttings or to plant it out. So there will be enough in the compost to keep them going. You can always give them a drop of Tom fertaliser if they start to look a bit yellow later on.

[SueA]

My 'Bishops' are in pots of multipurpose in the kitchen & have just started to shoot, make sure they are watered but not too much.

[Janette]

I have tubers in an unheated greenhouse and they were fine last night ready for planting out at the weekend hopefully, but this morning something has feasted on the shoots. Any ideas?

Janette

[nick the grief]

Slugs for a guess Janette. If they are in trays, scatter a few slug pellets around & keep them in the greenhouse, they'll re-shoot. Have a good look around them & dispose of any slugs you find. I prefer the right side no8 boot

[JennieAtkinson]

I'm starting to worry about our Bishop tubers - how long 'til some sign of life is seen? They're in compost in an unheated greenhouse.

Mine too - planted the Bishops in the ground about four weeks ago and not a sign. In fact I did a little excavation (like an archaeological dig) yesterday to see if they were still there!

I know this is a silly question but ......... when it says plant 6" deep, is that the base at 6" or the top 6" below the soil level? I let you know what I have done when I know the answer

[Alice]

I know I've posted this before but I grow my Dahlias from seed every year as I find this much simpler. I plant the seed about beginning of April. The Dahlias are now living outside in their posts waiting to plant at the end of the month when danger of frost is passed. They will flower very beginning of July. If its Bishop you like you can buy seed for that too. I never lift the Dahlias at the end and find about 50% get through the winter and come back. I then move them to where I want them or fill in the gaps in the border. Maybe you'd like to try it next year.

[SueA]

Jennie, I always take it to mean dig the hole 6 ins deep & then drop the tuber/corm/bulb or whatever in but I don't think it's makes much difference, on dahlias though I think the growing point (where the shoot comes out of the tuber)should be about 1-2ins below the surface. I always start my dahlias off in pots of compost with them just below the surface & then plant them out into large pots or the garden that way you can see them growing & not worry where they've gone! Perhaps you've planted yours a bit too deep & they're taking their time to get to the top?