New lawn

[nickdub]

Cornus kousa - absolutely lovely when in flower and has good Autumn colour - I'd love to have one as a specimen . As it is the one I bought and planted ot a few years ago is about 5' high now.

I'm not sure this is down to me being a not very good gardener, the site here where the ground gets v dry in Summer or just one of those things.

If you don't fancy a fruit tree how about a rowan ? - flowers in the Spring, fruit for the birds in the Autumn and good coloured foliage.

Not sure how hardy things need to be for growing in your part of the country - would lavender do OK do you think ?

[rary]

If you want to keep the grass rake as much moss out as you can, (send the moss to the council recycle as it takes years to rot down) spread some lime and leave for two or three weeks till its washed in then sow grass seed, while you are waiting dig around your border at least a spades depth, by the way a garden fork would be easier by the looks of that soil, this would help drainage. If you are doing away with the grass, I would break the area down to give small flower beds, by first removing the turf then the soil of the area I would be making the flower bed loosen the sub soil place the turf upside down on top of this then replace the soil, you may need something to retain the soil, you would then have flower beds where you could plant annuals to attract wild life, if that sounds too much work your ground would be suitable for rhododendrons, or azaleas, as they, like moss prefer acidic soil

[veggiechicken]

How about something like Honey Child's potager? https://www.growfruitandveg.co.uk/gr...den_96370.html
Maybe not box as you'd need to clip it but an edging of lavender would be nice and bee friendly. Perhaps turn it into a herb bed with rosemary and thyme growing in shingle.

In my front garden I've covered a half moon shaped bed with heavy duty black plastic (like pond liner) and covered it with cotswold stone chippings. I've cut holes through the liner and planted phormiums and an olive tree. There are some pots for flowers and it takes minimal maintenance. Just a thought!

[nickdub]

If you want to keep the grass rake as much moss out as you can, (send the moss to the council recycle as it takes years to rot down) spread some lime and leave for two or three weeks till its washed in then sow grass seed, while you are waiting dig around your border at least a spades depth, by the way a garden fork would be easier by the looks of that soil, this would help drainage. If you are doing away with the grass, I would break the area down to give small flower beds, by first removing the turf then the soil of the area I would be making the flower bed loosen the sub soil place the turf upside down on top of this then replace the soil, you may need something to retain the soil, you would then have flower beds where you could plant annuals to attract wild life, if that sounds too much work your ground would be suitable for rhododendrons, or azaleas, as they, like moss prefer acidic soil

Scented azaleas are a great idea. Beautiful when in flower, pretty the rest of the year and don't grow too big. I tried some, but my soil is too limey for them.

BTW as you say the sun is on the road side of the garden, thinking about it I'd go for the pond on that side but away from the gate, as it needs sun but doesn't cast any shade. I'd work back with my plan starting from there and finishing on the house side.

One other point if anything too big is near the house, you could lose some light on any windows there.

No need to plan what's on all your beds in advance - you can decide what shape you want them, then have fun filling them up with plants later on.

[rary]

Sorry nick but would discourage ponds in front gardens, when I moved into my house there was a pond in the front garden and the day of moving I had to lift a youngster out of it fortunately he only had a slogging nappy but the pond was removed straight away, kids were happy they got three goldfish.

[nickdub]

Can't see there being a problem with invading youngsters climbing in to a pond in this case, as there'e a pretty substantial wall between the pavement and the garden.

In the end its not my garden to decide for though, I can only put out ideas as to what might work, but they can always be varied. So if an open pond is considered too dangerous, you could have a boggy area with a liner under it to grow irises and other damp loving plants like primulas, or for that matter put in the pond but cover it with a bamboo lattice or similar - the wildlife will still use it.

[mysteryduck]

Cornus kousa - absolutely lovely when in flower and has good Autumn colour - I'd love to have one as a specimen . As it is the one I bought and planted ot a few years ago is about 5' high now.

I'm not sure this is down to me being a not very good gardener, the site here where the ground gets v dry in Summer or just one of those things.

If you don't fancy a fruit tree how about a rowan ? - flowers in the Spring, fruit for the birds in the Autumn and good coloured foliage.

Not sure how hardy things need to be for growing in your part of the country - would lavender do OK do you think ?

I think maybe what I thought of as small isn't small in the tree world! and now I've changed my mind back to an apple tree. I already bought a little Elstar for the back (self pollinating), but it needs a friend or two. I'm thinking maybe a M9 and a M27 Bramley's Seedling (not self pollinating). One for the birds and one to make apple pie. If I put one in the front and one in the back would that be ok?

I've never gardened before so I don't know much of anything, including how hardy things need to be. Lavender? I bought some plants and am growing some from seed, so I hope it will do OK!

EDIT: The Bramley's seedling is grafted onto M27 rootstock. Will this make a difference to yields and whatnot? Or should I go for the Bramley's 20? which is naturally M27? and the M9 I was going to buy as a bare root tree (cheaper than potted up), is this recommended?

[mysteryduck]

If you want to keep the grass rake as much moss out as you can, (send the moss to the council recycle as it takes years to rot down) spread some lime and leave for two or three weeks till its washed in then sow grass seed, while you are waiting dig around your border at least a spades depth, by the way a garden fork would be easier by the looks of that soil, this would help drainage. If you are doing away with the grass, I would break the area down to give small flower beds, by (1) first removing the turf (2) then the soil of the area I would be making the flower bed (3) loosen the sub soil (4) place the turf upside down on top of this (5) then replace the soil, you may need something to retain the soil, you would then have flower beds where you could plant annuals to attract wild life, if that sounds too much work your ground would be suitable for rhododendrons, or azaleas, as they, like moss prefer acidic soil

Thanks for the moss tips, good to know! But the lawn removal plan is a go. Will likely start in a couple of weeks. Small flower beds is a good idea too. We are going with the raised beds approach, thinking that squares are easier to cope with. Thanks also for the turf instructions, but I'm slightly confused. I'm not sure where the soil in step five (grey) comes from. Is this the sub soil? Or is this new compost? And how thick a layer of turf should I cut? In my mind I would use a spade, and remove the turf by cutting it into squares half a foot deep. I'm assuming the sub soil is below this (though it might just be stones/clay).

[mysteryduck]

an edging of lavender would be nice and bee friendly. Perhaps turn it into a herb bed with rosemary and thyme growing in shingle.

Love the herb bed idea! and lavender edging sounds great! .. once my seeds are all grown up. This gardening business is costly. At least the initial outlay.. tools, pots, plants, and seeds. My plan is to buy one of each plant I like the look of and take cuttings when it gets big enough. It might look a bit eclectic to start with, but in the long term will be satisfying I think

[mysteryduck]

@nickdub and @rary, the pond idea was great. But it's been veto'ed by the other half. He too is safety conscious of future little ones. I'll keep it in mind though.. and lots to get on with in the mean time!

[nickdub]

No worries - can't have familial disharmony on my conscience :-)

Let us know if you want any further ideas/comments on plants etc for your redesign, please.

[mysteryduck]

No worries - can't have familial disharmony on my conscience :-)

Let us know if you want any further ideas/comments on plants etc for your redesign, please.

Will do! I'm randomly browsing at the minute. Trying to get my shopping basket down to a manageable size. More questions..

Hydrangeas: I have two huge, and one slightly smaller hydrangea (ID'd by you guys) in the front yard. They don't fit the plan and need to be removed. My plan was to cut them down to the base and then dig for roots. I don't think pulling would work? I'm wondering what I should expect regarding the root system. The smaller one is in the middle. Would it be possible to transplant it? Or could I take some cuttings and put it in a pot?

Conifer: In the back, there's a small conifer (same height as me). I'm not sure if the tree was there first and the wall built around it, or if the tree was planted in the hole after. With the wall being shorter around the tree, I'm guessing the former.. Anyway, I'd like to remove this guy too. He's too big and I'd like to use these walls (there's another bit on the right after the gap) for herbs and whatnot. The plan was to give him the chop, but I've no idea how to get at the roots.. I'd rather not take the wall down just yet. Any ideas would be appreciated!

[nickdub]

You can always try transplanting things - success tends to depend on keeping a) the size of the root ball you take as big as possible and b) the time spent put of the ground to a minimum. Best tip - prepare the hole to receive the plant before you dig it up. Don't know on the cuttings, never tried with a hydrangea.

Conifers are often v shallow rooting so might not be too much of a problem. I'd :-
1) chop the top off leaving about 1' above ground as a handle
2) put a thickish piece of wood on top of the little wall, to spread the load and act as a fulcrum.
3) stick an iron bar, the longer the better, in to the roots under the center of the tree - a crowbar of course would be best, but failing that something like a scaffold pole would be OK
4) try to lever it out cautiously, keeping an eye on the wall for crumbling.

[mysteryduck]

You can always try transplanting things - success tends to depend on keeping a) the size of the root ball you take as big as possible and b) the time spent put of the ground to a minimum. Best tip - prepare the hole to receive the plant before you dig it up. Don't know on the cuttings, never tried with a hydrangea.

Conifers are often v shallow rooting so might not be too much of a problem. I'd :-
1) chop the top off leaving about 1' above ground as a handle
2) put a thickish piece of wood on top of the little wall, to spread the load and act as a fulcrum.
3) stick an iron bar, the longer the better, in to the roots under the center of the tree - a crowbar of course would be best, but failing that something like a scaffold pole would be OK
4) try to lever it out cautiously, keeping an eye on the wall for crumbling.

Fabulous! Thank you. Will attempt that tomorrow so long as it's not raining..

[HoneyChild]

You can create a mini pond using a plastic washing up bowl or something similar. I plan on doing something in an area of my garden which seems to attract toads and newts. Something small is still better than nothing at all.