Container Veg: Pot Size Guides

[veg4681]

As we're all gearing up for the exciting GYO task ahead, I'm trying to compile a summary of pot size guides that I hope will be useful for us all based on what I've learnt from the various threads (subject to corrections/inputs from exprienced growers for any veg type below). At the moment, I've mostly restricted the list to fruiting vegetables which is open to expansion to root or brassica etc veg (just that I don't know enough ).

Any more say on this?

Chilli
Pots: minimum 6" pot with 1 plant or 12"-14" pots with 2 plants
Window Box: 18" = 2 plants and 24" = 3 plants (where boxes are approx 6" wide and 6" deep)

Sweet Pepper
Pots: Between 6"-9" pot but 8" pot as best size

Tomato
Pots: Between 9"-12" pot or 10" florist bucket

Aubergine
Pots: Between 8"-10" pot

Cucumber
Pots: 12" pot

Courgette
Pots: Between 12"-15" pot

Winter Squash
= ????

Melon
= ????

French Bush/Dwarf Beans
Window Box: 24" box = not more than 6 bushes

Potato
B&Q orange or any DIY bucket = 3 tubers
Florist bucket = 1 big tuber or 2 small tubers

[SMS6]

As we're all gearing up for the exciting GYO task ahead, I'm trying to compile a summary of pot size guides that I hope will be useful for us all based on what I've learnt from the various threads (subject to corrections/inputs from exprienced growers for any veg type below). At the moment, I've mostly restricted the list to fruiting vegetables which is open to expansion to root or brassica etc veg (just that I don't know enough ).

Any more say on this?

Chilli = 6" pot or 12"-14" with 2 plants
Sweet Pepper = 6"-9" pot
Tomato = 10" pot (or standard florist black bucket)
Aubergine = ????
Cucumber = ????
Courgette = between 12"-15" pot
Winter Squash = ????
Melon = ????
French Bush/Dwarf Beans = less than 6 bush per 24" window box
Potato = 3 tubers per B&Q orange bucket or 1 tuber per florist bucket

Is this final pot size? I think I've been giving mine luxury accommodation as I generally have them all in larger pots than these.

[veg4681]

Is this final pot size? I think I've been giving mine luxury accommodation as I generally have them all in larger pots than these.

So what are you corrections, please feel free to edit where possible? This is open to debate .

[veg4681]

Not much inputs here but thought I add the link to site below with pot size guides for the commonly grown fruiting vegetables.

BBC - Gardening - How to be a gardener - The productive garden - Tomatoes and cucumbers

[Snadger]

I grew my chillie peppers in window boxes last year. 3 peppers to a 2 foot plastic window box and 2 peppers to an 18" box! Both boxes were approximately 6" wide and 6" deep!

[sez]

Wilkos do these 9" black buckets which my chillis and toms grew fantastically in last year (the peppers grew well too, but the slugs ate the fruit )

Tomato Planter Black 9in at Wilkinson Plus

[Cutecumber]

This is not an exact science - there are so many variables involved.

Depth of your container is something important to consider, not just the diameter. Try and give at least a foot of depth if you are able (except for some CCA which will be grown quickly and finished within a few weeks).

It is worthwhile experimenting with the number of plants in a container - do it in one season, or try changing things each year. Stick to the same variety and growing media and you should be able to work out an optimum size/ density of planting.

Overall, after... 8 years now, I think... of growing mostly in containers, my advice would be:

Err on the generous side for brassicas and curcubits - bigger is nearly always better. Don't cram them in.

Grow tomatoes singly (they can be moved if disease strikes).

Make use of cheap/ free containers for growing potatoes (such as old compost sacks).

For quality, grow roots very thinly - thin carrots and beetroot early and give them the space to produce you a well formed crop.

Tall things outside in containers outside can be trouble: sweetcorn, sprouts, tall kale, cordon tomatoes each have their own difficulties if you can't give grow enough/ give them enough room/ support them properly.

These are only my experiences and others will have had success where I have failed, and vice versa. If they just make you think about what you are doing, that's great

[veg4681]

Depth of your container is something important to consider, not just the diameter. Try and give at least a foot of depth if you are able (except for some CCA which will be grown quickly and finished within a few weeks).

Err on the generous side for brassicas and curcubits - bigger is nearly always better.

For quality, grow roots very thinly - thin carrots and beetroot early and give them the space to produce you a well formed crop.

Surely the container's depth is generally in proportion with the pot's diameter so we shouldn't worry too much. You rarely see a wide diameter pot that's flat-ish unless they're targetted for growing bulbs, flowers or as aquatic plant feature.

I'm not too keen on the idea of growing roots and onion (not spring) vegetables in pots with relatively poor space to yield ratio and as for Brassica probably mostly worth it for those vegetables that you can continually harvest by picking at it without pulling out the whole plant.

[veg4681]

I grew my chillie peppers in window boxes last year. 3 peppers to a 2 foot plastic window box and 2 peppers to an 18" box! Both boxes were approximately 6" wide and 6" deep!

Thanks for you input, I've updated my list above to include your pot growing suggestion. Hope there'll be more coming .

[Cutecumber]

You rarely see a wide diameter pot that's flat-ish unless they're targetted for growing bulbs

Plenty of people want to use containers that they have to hand as opposed to those which are sold for the purpose, so it is important to consider the depth. I use plastic storage boxes, for example, and the proportions are completely different.

I'm not too keen on the idea of growing roots and onion (not spring) vegetables in pots with relatively poor space to yield ratio and as for Brassica probably mostly worth it for those vegetables that you can continually harvest by picking at it without pulling out the whole plant.

Remember that most of us don't have a choice about using containers - we have no other option, so we're making the best of what we have to grow the things we like.

[Tigerella]

Hi

I am going more in this direction of growing in containers.

Is it better for most things to start at 3-4 inch and gradually go up in size?
And the containers will be stood on soil? What about the roots going through the bottom into the soil below, is this wise?
And the crawlers under the containers, is this a problem?

T

[Cutecumber]

A 3-4 inch pot is fine to start with.

The roots will grow into the soil if you put them on soil. When you come to move the pot you will damage the roots. Stand them on a pot or on a tile instead.

Woodlice can be a pest and eat small roots, but for me it is ants that are the worst. And ants nest in a pot means that the water runs out very quickly (the ants create lovely channels to protect their nest!). You can't prevent them entirely, but raising the pot off the ground might help a little.

[sez]

Wilkinsons have changed the 'design' of their tomato pots, which used to be a nice solid plastic, now theyre the thin stuff (like the small pots used for seedlings.. fine for them but hardly for something thatll be outside for months on end!). However today I found they do 10lt buckets for a grand total of 69p, should be perfect for toms etc (checkout lady was baffled as to why I was buying 10 buckets )