Announcement
Collapse
No announcement yet.
Yellowing Toms
Collapse
X
-
It's lack of nitrogen, but that may not necessarily be due to lack of fertiliser.
Vigorous plants like tomatoes can outgrow their own roots' capacity to take up necessary nutrients if left in a snall pot for too long. Basically, those need potting on as soon as possible.
- 1 like
-
Originally posted by ameno View PostIt's lack of nitrogen, but that may not necessarily be due to lack of fertiliser.
Vigorous plants like tomatoes can outgrow their own roots' capacity to take up necessary nutrients if left in a snall pot for too long. Basically, those need potting on as soon as possible.
Comment
-
Possible cause could be over watering, I would recommend that you only water from the bottom, or excessive feeding, or lack of feeding, if you are using a proprietary feed follow the instructions, don't add extra, so I would recommend water from the base, feed at the topit may be a struggle to reach the top, but once your over the hill your problems start.
Member of the Nutters Club but I think I am just there to make up the numbers
- 1 like
Comment
-
Originally posted by rary View PostPossible cause could be over watering, I would recommend that you only water from the bottom, or excessive feeding, or lack of feeding, if you are using a proprietary feed follow the instructions, don't add extra, so I would recommend water from the base, feed at the top
Comment
-
I never spray my tomato plants, though when it was hot I did wet down the greenhouse floor, too much water can cause the roots to rot, good watering practice should keep the plants growing OK, I have had a couple of plants growing in small yogurt tubs produce tomatoes this year, they were sitting along with several fuchsia, on a tray with cappilary matting, the mat was kept moist and I did add a nettle/seaweed feed to the mat occasionally, they are now in the tomato bed and growing fineit may be a struggle to reach the top, but once your over the hill your problems start.
Member of the Nutters Club but I think I am just there to make up the numbers
Comment
-
If you have no compost you could plant a couple in the ground but make sure there’s good air flow,not touching any other plants & the base of the plant needs to be clear of weeds/other plants so the plant can dry out quickly after rain. Rain with humidity are good blight conditions,we want dry leaves as much as we can. I added fresh grass cuttings in the compost once & the plant had darker green leaves than the other plants but tomato plants usually end up with yellowing bottom leaves as they help feed the new growth. Cut them off on a dry day.Location : Essex
Comment
-
I will do that as I would rather have smaller plants that at least produce, don't get blight in the greenhouse (although now congested) than risking everything outside. having said that I have about 5 planted out, very close to everything else but again, I don't have the luxury of a larger garden (which I lament daily) The planted out toms are doing well but I have started to cut off a lot of the leaves to aid airflow and make more fruit. This tip was passed from an expert tomato grower who swore by cutting off all the leaves late summer for better crops.Last edited by Marb67; 09-07-2023, 11:14 AM.
Comment
-
Its not late summer yet,you need fruit on the plants before leaf removal. I remove all leaves that are growing under the lowest truss of tomatoes,to speed ripening. Once those are ripened I remove more leaves but only under the truss that ripening,not above the truss. Then by late summer/end of August not many leaves remain.
Edit - there’s no way of making more fruit by removing leaves…Last edited by Jungle Jane; 09-07-2023, 11:47 AM.Location : Essex
- 2 likes
Comment
-
We had blight one year in our greenhouse many years ago - sun gold tomatoes. The spores apparently can waft in through open doors and windows so do be aware of that.
I was surprised how many leaves the French strip off their tomato plants at the end of summer. But it’s at the end of summer not now when the plant’s green leaves need to photosynthesise their own food. They do it not just to remove old leaves because they aren’t doing much and block airflow but to expose the fruit to more sunlight so they ripen more quickly.
Each of my potted tomatoes have an inverted water bottle with the bottom cut off so I can water from ‘above’ but the water actually goes to the bottom of the roots. I’ve had more success doing it this way.Last edited by Nicos; 09-07-2023, 11:54 AM."Nicos, Queen of Gooooogle" and... GYO's own Miss Marple
Location....Normandy France
- 1 like
Comment
-
Originally posted by Marb67 View PostI will do that as I would rather have smaller plants that at least produce, don't get blight in the greenhouse (although now congested) than risking everything outside. having said that I have about 5 planted out, very close to everything else but again, I don't have the luxury of a larger garden (which I lament daily) The planted out toms are doing well but I have started to cut off a lot of the leaves to aid airflow and make more fruit. This tip was passed from an expert tomato grower who swore by cutting off all the leaves late summer for better crops.
You can see new leaves growing where the other yellowed leaves and stems are, they'll replace the old ones. Yes normally we only remove lower leaves/stems when there is fruit and to facilitate air circulation. In this case they've not enjoyed being crowded and perhaps under watered. They will root from the stem, choose the best of the plants pot them up and drop them a bit deeper when you do.Last edited by smallblueplanet; 09-07-2023, 12:22 PM.To see a world in a grain of sand
And a heaven in a wild flower
- 2 likes
Comment
-
-
You don't need to use compost all the time when growing in pots, a mix of course sand and soil would do, they will even grow using course sand itself, but growing that way they need more regular watering. Seeds and plants can be grown without the use of compost, growing in compost was always recommended as the majority of compost was peat based, with peat being a sterile medium, can't say the same for the peat free composts nowadaysit may be a struggle to reach the top, but once your over the hill your problems start.
Member of the Nutters Club but I think I am just there to make up the numbers
- 1 like
Comment
-
There’s a risk of too many plants/overcrowded wet leaves,they pass disease to each other by touching,they need air space around them,then the leaves can dry quickly. Never spray the leaves with water,don’t get any leaves wet. Over the years I’ve had blight here,the most at risk plants are ones touching other shrubs/plants,they need air flow to dry. If the blighted plant is touching another tomato plant the disease can pass easily to the next plant. When they have space between each plant,there’s time to cut down the blighted plant & the plants near them won’t get blight (they might do eventually but not from that other blighted plant,unless it’s really blighted,you can usually see blight early & remove the blighted plant straight away to lessen the spores in the garden,allotments have it hard when neighbour plots don’t notice their plants,that should be an emergency situation to remove the blighted plants). I just said blight about a million times,it would take ages editing all thatLocation : Essex
- 1 like
Comment
Latest Topics
Collapse
Recent Blog Posts
Collapse
Comment