Issues with Tomato Plant (Gardener's Delight/Sungold - can't remember!)

[ameno]

To combat pesticides in your garden or compost, try covering the contaminated area with fresh henpen or worm juice if you can get it, or try making a microbial solution which you can shower the contaminated area with, I dont know how long it will take to clear the pesticide up but it may save a lot of work

Those would be the wrong microbes.
Aminopyralid and clopyralid will break down entirely in 6-12 months when in consistent contact with damp soil, under the action of normal soil bacteria.
But they will not be broken down (at least not at any decent rate) by the bacteria found in compost heaps (or manure heaps, which are basically the same decomposition bacteria).
Thus, the weed killer tends to persist in compost and manure.

So if you suspect you have already dug in contaminated manure or compost then the best and quickest way to get rid of the residue is simply to dig that area two or three times over the course of the year, making sure to break up any lumps of compost or manure as small as possible, so that as large a surface area as possible is in contact with the soil. Water the area in dry periods, to prevent it drying out entirely, as the bacteria become dormant if there is not enough water.

Some crops can still be grown on contaminated ground. Sweetcorn (like all grasses) is completely immune. Brassicas and Alliums are reasonably resistant, and thus should be unaffected by mild to moderate contamination (severe contamination will affect even them). On the other end, peas, beans and nightshades (tomatoes, potatoes, peppers, etc.) are most sensitive to it.
Of course, any crop waste created from growing on contaminated ground may itself have traces of weedkiller in, albeit less than was in the soil originally, so you may need to be careful how you deal with the dead plants. They are best either put in the general waste or chopped up finely and dug back into the plot they were grown in, to allow the weed killer to be broken down in the soil.

[Nicos]

I don’t know much about tomato diseases tbh - but having seen Aminopyralid damage on a neighbouring allotment a few years ago ( spuds and tomatoes) I’d say those leaves don’t look deformed enough. ( unless of course it was a weak dose?)
The leaves I saw were almost fern like and twisted.

Are they any worse or much the same still Chris?

[smallblueplanet]

I don’t know much about tomato diseases tbh - but having seen Aminopyralid damage on a neighbouring allotment a few years ago ( spuds and tomatoes) I’d say those leaves don’t look deformed enough. ( unless of course it was a weak dose?)
The leaves I saw were almost fern like and twisted.

Are they any worse or much the same still Chris?

Yeah, I was just putting forward ideas, and really saying I'm personally not keen on using 'unknown' manures. Thought a virus or over watering/damp heavy soil more likely.

[Nicos]

Yeh… my thoughts too!

[rary]

Those would be the wrong microbes.
Aminopyralid and clopyralid will break down entirely in 6-12 months when in consistent contact with damp soil, under the action of normal soil bacteria.
But they will not be broken down (at least not at any decent rate) by the bacteria found in compost heaps (or manure heaps, which are basically the same decomposition bacteria).
Thus, the weed killer tends to persist in compost and manure.

So if you suspect you have already dug in contaminated manure or compost then the best and quickest way to get rid of the residue is simply to dig that area two or three times over the course of the year, making sure to break up any lumps of compost or manure as small as possible, so that as large a surface area as possible is in contact with the soil. Water the area in dry periods, to prevent it drying out entirely, as the bacteria become dormant if there is not enough water.

Some crops can still be grown on contaminated ground. Sweetcorn (like all grasses) is completely immune. Brassicas and Alliums are reasonably resistant, and thus should be unaffected by mild to moderate contamination (severe contamination will affect even them). On the other end, peas, beans and nightshades (tomatoes, potatoes, peppers, etc.) are most sensitive to it.
Of course, any crop waste created from growing on contaminated ground may itself have traces of weedkiller in, albeit less than was in the soil originally, so you may need to be careful how you deal with the dead plants. They are best either put in the general waste or chopped up finely and dug back into the plot they were grown in, to allow the weed killer to be broken down in the soil.

I dont know where you get your information ameno, but i do know microbes can and do clean up contaminated soil, and when the word should is used it doesnt give a complete assurance of it being safe, after trying to grow some potatoes using some horse manure last year with poor results I used the same soil which was left exposed to a lot of rain fall over the winter to try and grow courgettes, and again poor results, I am also treating the remaining horse manure with worm juice. and the contents from a bokashi bin, this I will trial next year to see how it does

[ameno]

I dont know where you get your information ameno, but i do know microbes can and do clean up contaminated soil, and when the word should is used it doesnt give a complete assurance of it being safe, after trying to grow some potatoes using some horse manure last year with poor results I used the same soil which was left exposed to a lot of rain fall over the winter to try and grow courgettes, and again poor results, I am also treating the remaining horse manure with worm juice. and the contents from a bokashi bin, this I will trial next year to see how it does

Most of my information is from a certain consumer magazine which we are apparently not allowed to name here anymore, and they get the information from a mixture of university research and Charles Dowding.
And the "should" applies only to the time frame in which it will break down. Soil bacteria will fully break down the weed killer, but exactly how long it takes depends on how close to ideal the conditions are. In ideal conditions (warm, damp, with the contaminated material as broken up and mixed in as possible) it will take no more than 3 months, but in less ideal conditions (store manure or compost, or a mulch of the same) it can take much longer.