Soil prep for potato bed

[krazy_krok]

Hi all,
Was wondering if some of you could advise me how to best prepare my potato bed. it's 3mx6m i rotovated last septembers and i'm just about finished removing the coach grass with a fork that grew back, just waiting for the ground to thor.

I've got 8 bags of 2 year old horse muck which i was going to rotavate in, but no longer access to the rotovator. Should I:

Spread it evenly and fork it in?
Lay it as a mulch?
Single dig the ground and lay it in the bottom of trench?

Cheers

Krazy_krok

[Eyren]

I would just spread it around and leave the worms to do the work. I deffo wouldn't lay it at the bottom of a trench, as plants don't like to stick their tender young roots into a thick layer of muck. Remember that roots are the "mouths" of plants, since they are the way they take in water and nutrients - would you want to stick your tongue in there?

[Capsid]

Well I would lay the horse muck at the bottom of a trench and place the spuds directly on it and then cover with soil. Spuds require deep, fertile soil with plenty of organic manure to retain moisture in dry weather.

[Eyren]

See? Ask any two gardeners and you can guarantee contradictory answers!

[snuffer]

Just to confuse the issue a little further. I always put a mixture of well rotted manure and compost into the bottom of my potato drills, put the seed potatoes on top of this, cover them with just compost and then use the soil that was removed to make the drills to make a ridge over the row. It may not be exactly how the books say it should be done but it has always worked for me.

I would be a little weary of putting the seed potatoes straight into pure manure but if you mix it into the soil at the bottom of the drills I don't see why you should have a problem. Especially if the manure is two years old.

[Eyren]

Especially if the manure is two years old.

Good point - I didn't read that bit. Old manure should be a lot safer and easier for the plants to "digest".

I'd still be lazy, though, and not dig it in if I didn't have to

[Geordie]

just a tip, if you tend to suffer from potato scab or blemishes on the skins line the walls of the trench with grass clippings before you fill it. Yes I know you wont cut the grass in February but for the maincrops you might have some.

[Paulottie]

Yep Geordie, straw and bracken works too...lovely clean spuds.

I was always told not to lime as that causes scab....I also prefer to manure in the autumn rather than in trenches at planting time (think it encourages slugs) when I only use BF&B.

[Geordie]

well the thing with slugs and potatoes is that the more organic matter you incoporate into the soil the more food the slugs have so the more slugs you may get. What you have to remember is that the trials grounds used by seed companies have nowhere near the organic content your allotment or garden could have. Now the thing to control slugs is nematodes, well if ya have loads of money or a small area, the rest of us need to play a little bit clever.

If you do a little research there is no pattern to resistance eg the one that says all 'reds' are slug resistantUndoubtably you start with the varieties you grow....maris piper and admiral or shannon you might as well send out little slug invitations to the feast. Whislt none are slug proof the Pentland varieties are pretty resistant with Romano and King eddies up there as well. Or if you have the space plant some sacrificial potatoes to see if this keeps them off your best ones.

Rotation is essential as is harvesting as quicky as you can, but if you are plagued by slugs try these - Early - Ulster Chieftan, Second Early - Kestrel, Early main - Romano / Pentland Dell, Main - Spey / Golden Wonder. Hope this helps.

[shaymen]

Well I personally wouldn't put muck in the trench even if its too years old. Spread it over the top and maybe some as you fill the trench in and it will do its job as you earth up etc.

[Paulottie]

You're right Geordie, the background organic matter content is very high, I find it is not necessary to add muck at planting....certainly the old boys said just a dusting of fertilizer is enough....works cos I don't seem to have that many slug probs these days.

Have not used nematodes in years.....price issue as you say...I can buy three sacks of spuds for the price of one box of nemaslug!....helps if a couple of you club together though. Best mollusc conyrol is a dustbin lid in the middle of clean land...collect and destroy each morning

I grow 80% of my spuds through Mypex...I'm often asked if I find they get more damage...i don't think they do particularly....I think the slow worms and frogs get under there and feast away!

[krazy_krok]

thanx everyone some great advice really gave me food for thought. Got to try and get some muck incorparated as it was overgrown when i took it on and nothings been added to the soil for bout 10 years. Think i might incorporate some at the bottom of the drill, line with grass/straw and lightly spread the rest between the rows which can be incorporated when earthing up

Cheers
kk

[cupcake]

This has been a fascinating read for me. I am just chitting my first ever potatoes and was kicking myself for not asking my neighbour for some of her manure from the horses. I have lots of home made compost so I shall just rely on that, (but will acquire some muck and store it at the end of the garden for future use.)