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This is my (hopefully!) beginners guide to growing tomatoes.....aimed at growing outside rather than in greenhouse.
There are many, many varieties of tomato and recommendation is of no real use. Plant characteristics are an important factor to consider in selecting tomatoes. Some vines are relatively compact and less sprawling compared to large-vined types that must be grown using pruning and staking, tying, or “cage” culture.
Some gardeners prefer to buy transplants from local greenhouses, nurseries, garden centers or other suppliers. Tomatoes may be purchased in flats, market packs or individual pots. Individually potted plants are generally more expensive, but because roots do not have to be disturbed, plants suffer less “shock” when transplanted into the garden.
Choose plants that are dark green, short and compact, with sturdy stems about the size of a pencil. There should be a balance between plant and container, so avoid large plants growing in small containers.
Tomatoes can be seeded directly into the garden. Canning or plum types are best adapted for this. Seed thickly, and thin to about one plant per foot later in the season.
All types of tomatoes can be started indoors if you want to experiment rather than buying transplants. Use clay, plastic or peat pots, milk cartons, paper or plastic coffee cups, or similar containers, making sure they have drain holes in the bottom. It is best to use potting soil from a greenhouse or garden centre because it is free of weed seeds and harmful disease organisms. Plant several seeds into soil that has been well-firmed in the pots. Thin later, leaving one seedling per container.
Optimum growing temperature for tomatoes is 70 to 75 F with night temperatures of 60 to 65°F. Because those growing in shade or low-light conditions are spindly, give plants as much light as possible. You can start seedlings in artificial light, but they should be transferred to full sun before they are an inch or two tall. A week or so before they are ready to be set in the garden, decrease watering to toughen or “harden” the plants. This makes transplanting shock less severe.
(If you have a history of blossom end rot add crushed egg shells to your compost
.....ask me!)
To grow tomatoes successfully, plant them where they will get full sun for a half day or more. Those growing in shade will be spindly and unproductive. Tomatoes are sensitive to frost and do not thrive in cold garden soils. In southern UK, tomatoes can be transplanted in early to mid-April, but for most of us, late April to early May is suggested. In extreme north, plant in mid-May. If there is a danger of frost be sure to cover them with a temporary protective cover.
Tomatoes will grow in many different soil types but prefer a deep, loamy soil with a pH of 6.2 or 6.8. (This is not critical to know) If topsoil is shallow, you can improve the growing area by digging a hole 12 to 18 inches deep, mixing in peat moss or compost, and then refilling the hole. If this is not done, till the soil thoroughly with a spade.
A general fertilizer is sufficient to add to the area. Avoid using fertilizers with too much nitrogen because excessive nitrogen fertilization can cause spindly plants and few fruits. Fertilizers with ratios of 5-10-10, 6-12-12, 5-10-5, or with about half as much nitrogen as phosphate are most desirable. (The ratio is listed on the side of the packet or bottle and refers to the amounts of Nitrogen, Phosphorus and Potassium). Spacing depends on plant size and whether or not plants will be staked. Small-vined types can be spaced 15 to 18 inches apart and staked vines 18 to 24 inches. Unstaked plants should have 30 inches of space between them. If planting several rows, place them about 4 feet apart. Set tomato plants in the ground slightly deeper than they were growing in the flat or pot. To prevent plants from breaking off in spring winds, cover tall, spindly plants to the first leaf so most of the stem is below the soil surface. When using peat containers that do not have to be removed, tear off the top edge of the pot or make sure the pot is well below the soil surface. The edge of a peat pot when exposed to air acts like a wick and draws water from the soil around the plant. After planting, water well with a starter fertilizer solution. You can purchase water-soluble starter fertilizers at your local garden centre or mix 3 to 4 tablespoons of ordinary garden fertilizer in a gallon of water. Use about 1 cup of water starter around each plant. Protect plants for a few days by shielding them with boards, shingles or covers that let light penetrate, such as plastic containers or glass.
In small garden areas, tomatoes can be staked to conserve space. This usually produces earlier tomatoes because vines are pruned to promote fruit growth. In extremely hot weather, however, staked plants lack adequate foliage to prevent sun burning fruit.
Choose stakes 6 to 7 feet tall and drive them about 2 feet into the ground, 3 to 4 inches from the plant. Tie the plant to the stake with twine, cloth or soft plastic strips
about every 12 inches up the stake, tying first tightly around the stake, and then loosely. Tie again loosely around the plant so the stem will have room to expand. As plants develop, it is a common practice to prune suckers” or shoots that develop in the angle between the stem and branches. Remove suckers every few days as they form and before they are more than 1 to 2 inches long. When they are small, suckers can be easily pinched from the plant allowing one stem to grow up the stake.
Some gardeners allow the lowest sucker on the plant to develop, forming two main stems.
One cultural method sometimes seen is to use a “cage” or trellis for each plant. This keeps tomatoes and foliage off the ground and conserves garden space while allowing plenty of foliage protection during the hot summer months.
To construct a tomato cage, use concrete reinforcing wire or similar material with spaces large enough so fruits can be removed. A cylinder about 18 to 20 inches in diameter is ideal and can be formed out of a 5-foot length of wire. Cut off the lowest horizontal wire and stick the vertical wires into the ground (Figure 1). A stake will keep the cylinder from blowing over.
Place the cylinder or “cage” over a single transplant and allow the plant to grow normally, without removing suckers. You don’t have to tie the plant to the “cage,” but you may have to push stems back in if they grow out of the holes. Using this method, you should have ripe tomatoes until frost. Do not prune compact-type plants. You also see them made from willow which looks very attractive.
Mulch benefits growing tomatoes by holding in soil moisture, reducing soil compaction and helping to control weeds. Plastic mulches used early in the season, before planting, warm the soil and encourage early growth.
Apply straw, compost, leaves and grass clippings in mid-June at the base of each plant. A fresh seaweed mulch is the tomato equivalent of viagra!
Tomatoes require about 1 inch of water per week. This can be supplied with sprinklers, soaker hoses or furrow irrigation if not by natural rainfall.
Control weeds while they are small by hoeing. Use shallow scraping and avoid deep cultivation. A garden mulch will smother small weeds; reduce soil moisture losses, and decrease fruit rotting and foliage diseases.
Mulch with 2 to 3 inches of compost, peat moss, leaves or grass clippings, or 4 inches of coarser mulch such as wheat straw or old prairie hay.
Tomatoes planted in sandy areas may benefit from monthly side-dressings of fertilizer containing about twice as much phosphate as nitrogen. Use 2 to 3 pounds per 100 square feet of garden area and water well. In extreme summer heat, blossom drop may be common.
At temperatures above 90°F and with low humidity, poor pollination causes blossom drop and poor fruit set. Blossom-set type hormone sprays have not been effective in reducing blossom drop under these conditions.
Tomato fruits do not turn red when temperatures are above 95°F. In extreme summer heat, fruits allowed to ripen on the vine may be yellowish-orange. For optimum colour development, it is advisable to pick tomatoes in the pink stage and allow them to ripen indoors. About 70°F is ideal, and light is not necessary. After tomatoes have ripened, they may be stored in the refrigerator for several weeks until needed.
Just before frost, remove green tomatoes from the vines, detach stems, and wipe with a soft cloth. Wrap each tomato in newspaper or waxed paper. Store in a cool, dark place at 55 to 60°F, checking frequently to remove decaying or damaged fruit. As the fruits begin to turn, remove them and continue ripening at 70°F. Using this technique you may just have ripe tomatoes until Christmas.
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There are many, many varieties of tomato and recommendation is of no real use. Plant characteristics are an important factor to consider in selecting tomatoes. Some vines are relatively compact and less sprawling compared to large-vined types that must be grown using pruning and staking, tying, or “cage” culture.
Some gardeners prefer to buy transplants from local greenhouses, nurseries, garden centers or other suppliers. Tomatoes may be purchased in flats, market packs or individual pots. Individually potted plants are generally more expensive, but because roots do not have to be disturbed, plants suffer less “shock” when transplanted into the garden.
Choose plants that are dark green, short and compact, with sturdy stems about the size of a pencil. There should be a balance between plant and container, so avoid large plants growing in small containers.
Tomatoes can be seeded directly into the garden. Canning or plum types are best adapted for this. Seed thickly, and thin to about one plant per foot later in the season.
All types of tomatoes can be started indoors if you want to experiment rather than buying transplants. Use clay, plastic or peat pots, milk cartons, paper or plastic coffee cups, or similar containers, making sure they have drain holes in the bottom. It is best to use potting soil from a greenhouse or garden centre because it is free of weed seeds and harmful disease organisms. Plant several seeds into soil that has been well-firmed in the pots. Thin later, leaving one seedling per container.
Optimum growing temperature for tomatoes is 70 to 75 F with night temperatures of 60 to 65°F. Because those growing in shade or low-light conditions are spindly, give plants as much light as possible. You can start seedlings in artificial light, but they should be transferred to full sun before they are an inch or two tall. A week or so before they are ready to be set in the garden, decrease watering to toughen or “harden” the plants. This makes transplanting shock less severe.
(If you have a history of blossom end rot add crushed egg shells to your compost
.....ask me!) To grow tomatoes successfully, plant them where they will get full sun for a half day or more. Those growing in shade will be spindly and unproductive. Tomatoes are sensitive to frost and do not thrive in cold garden soils. In southern UK, tomatoes can be transplanted in early to mid-April, but for most of us, late April to early May is suggested. In extreme north, plant in mid-May. If there is a danger of frost be sure to cover them with a temporary protective cover.
Tomatoes will grow in many different soil types but prefer a deep, loamy soil with a pH of 6.2 or 6.8. (This is not critical to know) If topsoil is shallow, you can improve the growing area by digging a hole 12 to 18 inches deep, mixing in peat moss or compost, and then refilling the hole. If this is not done, till the soil thoroughly with a spade.
A general fertilizer is sufficient to add to the area. Avoid using fertilizers with too much nitrogen because excessive nitrogen fertilization can cause spindly plants and few fruits. Fertilizers with ratios of 5-10-10, 6-12-12, 5-10-5, or with about half as much nitrogen as phosphate are most desirable. (The ratio is listed on the side of the packet or bottle and refers to the amounts of Nitrogen, Phosphorus and Potassium). Spacing depends on plant size and whether or not plants will be staked. Small-vined types can be spaced 15 to 18 inches apart and staked vines 18 to 24 inches. Unstaked plants should have 30 inches of space between them. If planting several rows, place them about 4 feet apart. Set tomato plants in the ground slightly deeper than they were growing in the flat or pot. To prevent plants from breaking off in spring winds, cover tall, spindly plants to the first leaf so most of the stem is below the soil surface. When using peat containers that do not have to be removed, tear off the top edge of the pot or make sure the pot is well below the soil surface. The edge of a peat pot when exposed to air acts like a wick and draws water from the soil around the plant. After planting, water well with a starter fertilizer solution. You can purchase water-soluble starter fertilizers at your local garden centre or mix 3 to 4 tablespoons of ordinary garden fertilizer in a gallon of water. Use about 1 cup of water starter around each plant. Protect plants for a few days by shielding them with boards, shingles or covers that let light penetrate, such as plastic containers or glass.
In small garden areas, tomatoes can be staked to conserve space. This usually produces earlier tomatoes because vines are pruned to promote fruit growth. In extremely hot weather, however, staked plants lack adequate foliage to prevent sun burning fruit.
Choose stakes 6 to 7 feet tall and drive them about 2 feet into the ground, 3 to 4 inches from the plant. Tie the plant to the stake with twine, cloth or soft plastic strips
about every 12 inches up the stake, tying first tightly around the stake, and then loosely. Tie again loosely around the plant so the stem will have room to expand. As plants develop, it is a common practice to prune suckers” or shoots that develop in the angle between the stem and branches. Remove suckers every few days as they form and before they are more than 1 to 2 inches long. When they are small, suckers can be easily pinched from the plant allowing one stem to grow up the stake.
Some gardeners allow the lowest sucker on the plant to develop, forming two main stems.
One cultural method sometimes seen is to use a “cage” or trellis for each plant. This keeps tomatoes and foliage off the ground and conserves garden space while allowing plenty of foliage protection during the hot summer months.
To construct a tomato cage, use concrete reinforcing wire or similar material with spaces large enough so fruits can be removed. A cylinder about 18 to 20 inches in diameter is ideal and can be formed out of a 5-foot length of wire. Cut off the lowest horizontal wire and stick the vertical wires into the ground (Figure 1). A stake will keep the cylinder from blowing over.
Place the cylinder or “cage” over a single transplant and allow the plant to grow normally, without removing suckers. You don’t have to tie the plant to the “cage,” but you may have to push stems back in if they grow out of the holes. Using this method, you should have ripe tomatoes until frost. Do not prune compact-type plants. You also see them made from willow which looks very attractive.
Mulch benefits growing tomatoes by holding in soil moisture, reducing soil compaction and helping to control weeds. Plastic mulches used early in the season, before planting, warm the soil and encourage early growth.
Apply straw, compost, leaves and grass clippings in mid-June at the base of each plant. A fresh seaweed mulch is the tomato equivalent of viagra!
Tomatoes require about 1 inch of water per week. This can be supplied with sprinklers, soaker hoses or furrow irrigation if not by natural rainfall.
Control weeds while they are small by hoeing. Use shallow scraping and avoid deep cultivation. A garden mulch will smother small weeds; reduce soil moisture losses, and decrease fruit rotting and foliage diseases.
Mulch with 2 to 3 inches of compost, peat moss, leaves or grass clippings, or 4 inches of coarser mulch such as wheat straw or old prairie hay.
Tomatoes planted in sandy areas may benefit from monthly side-dressings of fertilizer containing about twice as much phosphate as nitrogen. Use 2 to 3 pounds per 100 square feet of garden area and water well. In extreme summer heat, blossom drop may be common.
At temperatures above 90°F and with low humidity, poor pollination causes blossom drop and poor fruit set. Blossom-set type hormone sprays have not been effective in reducing blossom drop under these conditions.
Tomato fruits do not turn red when temperatures are above 95°F. In extreme summer heat, fruits allowed to ripen on the vine may be yellowish-orange. For optimum colour development, it is advisable to pick tomatoes in the pink stage and allow them to ripen indoors. About 70°F is ideal, and light is not necessary. After tomatoes have ripened, they may be stored in the refrigerator for several weeks until needed.
Just before frost, remove green tomatoes from the vines, detach stems, and wipe with a soft cloth. Wrap each tomato in newspaper or waxed paper. Store in a cool, dark place at 55 to 60°F, checking frequently to remove decaying or damaged fruit. As the fruits begin to turn, remove them and continue ripening at 70°F. Using this technique you may just have ripe tomatoes until Christmas.
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