Agreed, good overview SarsWix
I follow a similar process. Post 'propogator' (mine the most basic form of, definitely replacing next year) in which I use 1" sq peat cells (if I can find them), I then plant individually into 3" pots. Once roots start poking through the bottom of the pot, I move plants to 6" (2L), then to final size of 8" (4L). I find this to be fine for the duration of the year.
Last year I did two sowings (early Jan, early March); the Jan sowings of Espelette, Thai Dragon, and Joe's Long ultimately performed better in the summer for growth and went into final pot size of 10" (7L) to maximise this.
My main motivation for wanting to not go too big too soon is practicalities of space for overwintering. I can still get a decent, well developed plant, and modest yield using 4L pots, but more importantly it means I can accommodate fifteen of them side-by-side indoors come late October. As was demonstrated to me quite clearly this time around, it's good to have a fair number of plants as insurance against losses.
There is an argument too that restricting the roots in a smaller pot makes for hotter pods, if that's what you're going for.
The following year those overwintered plants can then be transplanted into 15L pots around April/May time, weather depending, and then they'll stay in that pot for the rest of the year. I find the plants' subsequent performance makes overwintering a worthwhile endeavour, and of particular benefit to maximise crops of hotter types, though with the exception of Fatalii, and Paper Lantern, I'm tending to move away from those these days.
I follow a similar process. Post 'propogator' (mine the most basic form of, definitely replacing next year) in which I use 1" sq peat cells (if I can find them), I then plant individually into 3" pots. Once roots start poking through the bottom of the pot, I move plants to 6" (2L), then to final size of 8" (4L). I find this to be fine for the duration of the year.
Last year I did two sowings (early Jan, early March); the Jan sowings of Espelette, Thai Dragon, and Joe's Long ultimately performed better in the summer for growth and went into final pot size of 10" (7L) to maximise this.
My main motivation for wanting to not go too big too soon is practicalities of space for overwintering. I can still get a decent, well developed plant, and modest yield using 4L pots, but more importantly it means I can accommodate fifteen of them side-by-side indoors come late October. As was demonstrated to me quite clearly this time around, it's good to have a fair number of plants as insurance against losses.
There is an argument too that restricting the roots in a smaller pot makes for hotter pods, if that's what you're going for.
The following year those overwintered plants can then be transplanted into 15L pots around April/May time, weather depending, and then they'll stay in that pot for the rest of the year. I find the plants' subsequent performance makes overwintering a worthwhile endeavour, and of particular benefit to maximise crops of hotter types, though with the exception of Fatalii, and Paper Lantern, I'm tending to move away from those these days.
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