Tips for healthy tomato plants

[Urbansussexgardener]

I planted my starters 3 weeks ago into 5l containers. Only just started the feeding cycle as all are just about to set flowers. This is my first Tom grow and I have had no problems with disease or pest infestation etc. I thought I'd share a couple of images just to show how well there going. You might even spot my 1st F1 sweet set and starting to ripen.

Here's my advice on maintaining healthy strong and high yielding plants. (Some may beg to differ, I expect this as I am a beginner and this is a guide in accordance with my grow and may not apply to all varieties.

See photos attached[ATTACH]36867[/ATTACH]

Varieties:

1 x Gardeners delight

1 x F1 Santa (aka f1 sweets)

2 x Alicante

2 x Money Maker

2 x San Marzano

1. I used 5l containers, although the bigger the better to allow room for stron roots to develop and water absorption..

2. Water as soon as top layer of soil/compost is dry, do not overwater. (Try not to wet leaves as this will encourages diseases)

3. If your plant/plants seem to grow tall and straight (indeterminate) pinch or cut off all side shoots. (Otherwise energy goes into these which the rest of plant needs)

4. As soon as flowers appear or set feed with a high Potash feed such as Tomoroite I.e. Follow the instructions as per the feed though, I normally add a touch under than what the bottle states.

5. All branches below the flowers should be removed when flowering starts to encourage energy to the fruiting branches known as trusses.

6. Remember to support your plant/plants with bamboo canes or a cage once they get heavy.

Other than the above enjoy your grow and any questions if be happy to try and answer to the best of my knowledge below in the comments box.

Many thanks for reading and hope you gained something. By the way I'm in Sussex hence the name so the varieties I'm growing are well suited to the local climate.

UrbanSussex Gardener. X

[binley100]

Thankyou for sharing .......

[veggiechicken]

Glad they're doing well. You sounded so worried a couple of weeks ago http://www.growfruitandveg.co.uk/gra...ant_72481.html

[WendyC]

If you add your location to your profile then you won't need to mention it every time you post!

[Scarlet]

I think I can guess Sussex maybe??

[mothhawk]

Hi, USG. Here's a thought. If you do this "All branches below the flowers should be removed when flowering starts to encourage energy to the fruiting branches known as trusses. ", you are removing the powerhouse parts of the plant (leaves) that produce the energy that you want. The fewer leaves the plant has, the less strongly it can grow.

[SarzWix]

1. 5 litre containers are nowhere near big enough for a full size tomato plant, in my experience. 10litre flower buckets are the smallest I use, and they still struggle to hold enough water/nutrients for a fully laden plant. 15 litre patio-style containers do best for me.

2. A full grown tomato plant needs 2 litres of water a day, under-watering will cause blossom-end rot in the fruit.

3. If you have room to support them (and your plants are in a big enough pot) side-shoots can be left to develop; they flower and fruit pretty quickly.

4. I only feed once the plant has set fruit, not on the appearance of flowers.

5. I never remove leaves unless they're dead, damaged or diseased; the plant needs leaves to photosynthesise, ie, grow, and I've never seen any evidence that proves the theory of leaf removal.

6.Supports are best put in place at the same time as the plant goes into its final position. Otherwise it risks damaging the roots. A watering bottle/funnel can be put in place at the same time, directing water to the roots.

[Scarlet]

I've just had a look at your photos and there seem to be a lot of side shoots growing. All of the varieties you've listed are cordon tomatoes - I think? The second photo in particular hasn't got a main growing stem (as far as I can see). The third pic has several side shoots remaining - are you choosing to leave these on? What varieties are shown in the photos?

[WendyC]

2. Water as soon as top layer of soil/compost is dry, do not overwater. (Try not to wet leaves as this will encourages diseases)

This would depend on the sort of compost you are using. A coir based one can look dry on top but in fact be quite wet underneath. I use the weight of the pot, if possible, to decide if plants need water.

[Scarlet]

2. ...and if you water from the bottom, the leaves won't get wet.

[Urbansussexgardener]

hey Sarah, funny enough I have continued to religiously stick to the same method and I have an abundance of fruit everywhere across 8 beauties. I have no diseases, pests or any worrying symptoms.

[Marb67]

I have a few toms on my tumbler and minibell plants that have been green for weeks with no ripening despite being in the hot sun we have had. I had about 3 ripe toms from the tumbler about a month ago so why haven't the rest done the same ?

[veggiechicken]

Marb, you're not the only one - have a look at this http://www.growfruitandveg.co.uk/gra.../me_73912.html