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Tomatoes have stalled ......?

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  • #16
    Originally posted by Scarlet View Post
    I bet you drove your Mum nuts....
    Lol
    Being a good son my Mums word was gospel, but later in life it was my teachers that despaired for their sanity.
    photo album of my garden in my profile http://www.growfruitandveg.co.uk/gra...my+garden.html

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    • #17
      Originally posted by Bill HH View Post
      Ok but what about plants put outside in the ground, no pot sides to touch there?
      I always thought the issue was with the amount of water the compost holds versus the size of the root ball. In the ground outside water drains freely so the roots are not sitting in too much water. Whereas if you pot up a seeding with a small rootball to too large a pot, it cannot drink up enough water fast enough, sits in too much water, and the roots are at risk of becoming unhealthy and dying off. The plant may recover but will have been set back quite a bit.

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      • #18
        This pot size issue is at the very heart of basic gardening and I can see some sense in what you are all saying. But I am an awkwad old bugger and I have been and gorn and planted my toms from 3 inch pots into their final buckets. Let mother nature unleash the dogs of war, time will tell.
        photo album of my garden in my profile http://www.growfruitandveg.co.uk/gra...my+garden.html

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        • #19
          I sow seeds 2 or 3 to a 3.5 inch pot, pot them up into individual 3.5 inch pots when they have their first true leaves, and then after that, once roots start to show through the bottom of the pot they get put into their final pots or outside positions. I find that tomato plants that have been potted on at intermediate stages need staking and are extremely awkward to repot. Occasionally I will plant out a larger one into the garden, but I try to avoid it if possible.
          A life is like a garden. Perfect moments can be had, but not preserved, except in memory. LLAP. - Leonard Nimoy

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          • #20
            I agree penellype. That's why I only go for an early bush type (maskotka) for my earlies. No need for staking. My main crops are cordons and I started them in early march, 10 sown to a small takeaway tub. Moved on now into 3 inch pots and they'll stay there until planting into the ground some time in may.

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            • #21
              Not sure how I managed this but last potted on my toms two got left behind in the GH so instead of living on a sunny bedroom window sill those two have been subjected to 4 or 5c overnight

              There's a big difference in size compared to those indoor, anyway I've potted them on and bought them back inside be interesting to see if being neglected makes a difference.
              Location....East Midlands.

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              • #22
                Great discussion as always, thanks. Seems like I am not the only one and that the 'mysteries' of gardening continue. I have never had this problem before, and pretty confident I haven't over potted so I'll leave it to the tomato gods. Always amazes me how subtle changes in weather, that we don't even notice, seem to trigger/stall growth on a whole range of plants.


                Sent from my iPad using Grow Your Own Forum

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                • #23
                  We are quite fortunate that most of us don't live outside anymore, if we did I'm sure we'd soon notice the subtle changes in weather....

                  I find while plants are small its useful to spray with water, as its less likely you'll over water a large pot this way. If they look healthy and happy, then i wouldn't worry too much, they are like children they have growth spurts.
                  I'm only here cos I got on the wrong bus.

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                  • #24
                    as an example, I find that onions like the roots to be well in contact with the side of the pot and they thrive best when that is the case. I always pot them on before they get root bound though because that would cause a check in the growth. No idea whether other plants have the same preference as onions but it is true that seedlings thrive best going in to the next size pot up and do less well in larger pots

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                    • #25
                      I always pot on stage by stage with my toms mainly because I like to plant them deep at each stage. I find this gives me a stronger plant with more roots.

                      Potty
                      Potty by name Potty by nature.

                      By appointment of VeggieChicken Member of the Nutters club.


                      We hang petty thieves and appoint great ones to public office.

                      Aesop 620BC-560BC

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                      • #26
                        Originally posted by Bill HH View Post
                        But I am an awkwad old bugger and I have been and gorn and planted my toms from 3 inch pots into their final buckets. Let mother nature unleash the dogs of war, time will tell.
                        What you should have done Bill was to do half like that, and half potted on in stages, so that you could convince yourself that Kristen's Way Is Best
                        K's Garden blog the story of the creation of our garden

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                        • #27
                          I've attached some pictures now - still no sign of any real movement. Think I am going to have to go and buy plants, which is very annoying, as I just don't know why they have stopped. Chillis/peppers looking even more pathetic than the tomatoes!!
                          Attached Files

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                          • #28
                            The Tomatoes look like classic symptoms of cold to me. IME they take ages to get going again, even when the weather warms up, after than and I think there is a risk that they will be more prone to disease etc. as a result of the stress they have had.

                            Be interested in other folks opinions though.
                            K's Garden blog the story of the creation of our garden

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                            • #29
                              Could well have been the cold that first started to stress them, but to me the leaves now look quite yellow with purple veins and the lower leaves look quite reddy purple. Which would suggest they are lacking in nutrients? I'd give a spray with Epsom Salts or seaweed and give a feed of tomato fertiliser. Might be a good idea to cut back on watering and keep them on the dry side until they start to perk up, water each one individually as and when the compost dries.
                              Mostly Tomato Mania Blog

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                              • #30
                                Originally posted by poly View Post
                                Could well have been the cold that first started to stress them, but to me the leaves now look quite yellow with purple veins and the lower leaves look quite reddy purple. Which would suggest they are lacking in nutrients?
                                To my mind that's the effect of the cold stress.

                                The cold makes the roots less efficient and that reduces their ability to take up Potassium or Phosphate (I forget which), that impacts on the plant's ability to produce sugars by photosynthesis and to move them around the plant - net effect is that they look starved.

                                I suppose giving them some feed might help - making it more readily available for the plants to absorb - but to my mind the damage is done.

                                I keep my Tomatoes above 10C come hell or water! otherwise, as I see it, the gain of sowing them early is lost.
                                K's Garden blog the story of the creation of our garden

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