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  • #16
    I tried growing it in 2013 - the proof is here http://www.growfruitandveg.co.uk/gra...row_72133.html No okra fruit though
    Elfeda, I'll send you some of the Okra from the VSP when I send the Italian mystery seeds to you. Anyone else want some from the VSP? (Usual seed swap rules apply)

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    • #17
      VC,I talked to someone on my allotment site who grown them both in tunnel and out side, got better crop from the plants grown in Polytunnel, but they got few outside as well. with your, i think you planted too many plants . 2 plants for a big pot is the max you can have

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      • #18
        Originally posted by Moopmoop View Post
        What type do you have?
        I haven't got any yet but I think I'll try Little Lucy and Pure luck.

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        • #19
          I've sown okra this year - 2 each of Cajun Delight F1 and Red Burgundy. I'm doing small amounts of lots of plants to see what works and what doesn't as it's my first year with a garden.

          One of the Cajun Delight has already died a death, and the other lost its seed leaves before the true leaves had fully developed and is hanging on by a thread. I might have to sow some more just in case. The red burgundy is doing quite well on the kitchen windowsill though.

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          • #20
            I've tried Okra several times. I'm trying it again this year. This time around I've opted for Clemson Spineless. Previously I've grown Cajun Delight. They are definitely a tricky plant to get right. I've had limited successes in the past with it - the plants have fruited, but we're talking single figures per plant cropping wise.
            I'd say under glass / plastic was essential for this one, even in the southern part of Britain. The advice states outdoor growing is possible provided the position is warm and sheltered - even still I wouldn't chance it given the heat loving nature of Okra.
            Lots of water in summer - but not drenching the soil. Water as per the conditions I guess. Just moist is the ideal. Plants grow fairly fast if the conditions are good. Soil needs to be rich, with a potash feed applied regularly once cropping commences. Picking of fruits should be every other day at least (I can never keep to that schedule which is possibly why my crop yield is never that impressive).
            A good way to avoid the risk of sliminess when cooked is to serve the okra deep fried in a light batter. You can season this with whatever you like.

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            • #21
              Hi everyone! Okra grows well in hot and humid conditions, and it's best to soak the seeds for 24 hours in tepid water before sowing. If anyone is interested in more tips, the June issue of GYO is out now, featuring a guide on growing this crop from the RHS

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              • #22
                I've been tempted to grow them as a 'novelty' crop since I don't actually like okra, but my OH has forbidden me from growing them, since she's worried 'we'd actually have to eat the awful slimey things'.
                What do you get if you divide the circumference of a pumpkin by its diameter?
                Pumpkin pi.

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                • #23
                  Skeggijon,

                  you can eat the pod stright from plant. they are tasty

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                  • #24
                    most ofl my okra plants has flower buds ( in theory they start fruiting in 45 days with good care and temparatures). should hurry and pot them up

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                    • #25
                      If the plants are already flowering before you plant them out, there is a danger they will set a small fruit or two and then abort. That is what happens to mine. Remember they are an hibiscus.

                      I would recommend removing the flowers which will allow the plant to achieve a greater size before it flowers and produces a pod. The time from flower to pod is not long as we are not waiting for the pod to 'ripen' as it is picked when green and at an early stage.

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                      • #26
                        Growing Clemsons Spineless in the polytunnel. They're really healthy looking, and about a foot high, although they don't have many leaves, not sure if they're meant to look like that or not. They're about a foot high and are in pots about a foot deep on the staging (rather in the ground, which I want to use for plants I know I grow well). We'll see how they get on
                        Are y'oroight booy?

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                        • #27
                          been picking couple of okra every other day, more to come. actually I have compromised okra (planted few other leafy veg in those pots) this year at the end . next year I must move okra to final pots bit earlier to get really decent crop though. ( as first timer been waiting and waiting for compost to fill many pots in the green house )

                          ps: been taking pics, except few okras here and there ...lets see If I can manage to post

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                          • #28
                            I've had similar experiences to BertieFox and others on this thread.

                            I get plants to a certain size, lower leaves seem to die and drop off, and plant fails to thrive. I did have a small number of small pods last year with 'Cajun Delight', but frustrating not to be able to get the plants bigger and more productive.

                            This year I had a couple of 'Red Burgundy' growing, and one of the plants got to more than a foot tall and had small pods forming, but same problem with lower leaf drop.

                            Already got my seeds for next year, 'Clemsons Spineless', so I haven't given up yet.

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                            • #29
                              Seeds soaked and then sown a few days ago and the first one is up today

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                              • #30
                                I've got 4 on the go again though all cajun delight this time - they're actually doing better than last years, which never flowered or fruited in the end. This year I've got as far as first true leaves on all 4!

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