I've just ordered 3 Crimson Crush from Suttons - free, just pay P&P (there's a thread about it in Top Tips). Used my £10 free voucher code (see earlier post) and also bought some seeds with the balance.
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So, the new Supertom
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A couple of photos of my 3 Crimson Crush plants - 1 tall with lots of sideshoots, 1 mediou height and a bit leggy, and 1 low and bushy with a ripe tomato. I'll tell you soon how it tastes.
The plants are in the GH so not a true blight test; I may move one outside if blight threatens - just to see how it compares.
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I have 2, both outside and both from the Dobies giveaway. One is 4ft high, nice and sturdy and with about 4 trusses of big (green) tomatoes. The other one is just an embarrassment at less than a foot high and 1-2 toms. Both treated the same.http://mudandgluts.com - growing fruit and veg in suburbia
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It does sound as though this variety has not been stabilised properly yet with you all getting such different shaped plants.
I've never heard of anyone overwintering toms before either, does it give good results?
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Have to agree with everyone elses verdict so far, much slower growing than my mamandes and moneymaker.
One thing tho, VC, your pics seem to show a normal looking tom , mine seem to look like a beefcake,anyone else ?, will put a photo up when it stops raining .
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I would describe mine as a medium to large tomato, not quite beefstake size.
So far Ive found them to be a slow grower so a late tomato but a good fruit set and nice size, taste wise ive only had one ripe one but I find the taste to be very nice, if I was being ultra critical I would say that although thin skinned, the skin was a little tough.
The 2 in the centre are crimson crush
Attached FilesLast edited by maverick451; 10-08-2015, 10:45 AM.
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Originally posted by muddled View PostI've never heard of anyone overwintering toms before either, does it give good results?
Jackarmy - my toms are turning out to be normal salad toms too, not beef ones.Last edited by sparrow100; 10-08-2015, 01:37 PM.http://mudandgluts.com - growing fruit and veg in suburbia
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I have overwintered tomatoes successfully on my house windowsills - I allow 2 trusses of fruit then stop them, then allow a sideshoot to grow from the bottom and cut down the first stem when fruiting has finished, and continue like this all year. The first year (2013-14) I tried this I had the odd small tomato all winter and the plants then started "proper" production much earlier than seedlings would. I also grew new plants from sideshoots from these, although I found any started before about the end of January didn't do too well probably due to low light levels. The 2nd year (2014-15) worked ok too, although I didn't get any winter tomatoes much after January, and unfortunately the plants were killed by red spider mite after the first stem had fruited in June. Winter growth is slow and spindly, but tomatoes are perennials so there is no reason why they should not overwinter in the right conditions.
I have no experience of this particular variety though - my plants are Shirley.A life is like a garden. Perfect moments can be had, but not preserved, except in memory. LLAP. - Leonard Nimoy
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Im starting to get a bit of blight in my garden and on one of crimson crush plants there was a water mark blight patch on leaf.
Ive got 3 crimson crush plants and 1 of them is really strong and healthy, and have round same size fruit, looks exactly like in the picture from suttons, the other 2 are a bit weaker and have different size fruit on them.
The strong plant shows no sign of blight and I think im going to take a sideshoot off sooner rather than later
My concern is though, if the fruit size varies from plant to plant will the level of blight resistance?
edit- just to add that looking at the suttons picture there looks like a blight patch here and there on the plant, so maybe its not thats it doesnt not get blight, its just that its able to hold it back and not fall over.
heres the sutton picture
Attached FilesLast edited by maverick451; 03-09-2015, 11:16 PM.
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