Sulphate of Iron

[4Shoes]

Worms
Applying sulphate of iron every 4 - 6 weeks at a rate of 8g/m2 should help reduce worm activity resulting in fewer worm casts. Will not kill them.. Just moves them on.

Moss
Regular applications at 10g/m2 every 4 - 6 weeks during the winter months will help stop any moss invading your lawn.

Diseases such as fusarium patch and take-all patch
Sulphate Iton can be mixed with water and applied at a rate of 10g/m2 to the lawn when the disease is most active.

[Snoop Puss]

Thanks, 4Shoes. Just the info I wanted, though I won't be using it on a lawn unless you count great mats of couch grass!

[Jay-ell]

Thanks, guys. Yes, Jay-ell, my brassicas seemingly need a bit of boron as a micronutrient.

And thanks, Rary. Maybe earthworms would just dive deeper too. I certainly don't want to kill them. I shall ponder on.

Snoop, I wan't asking if boron is needed by plants (which, along with a pile of other elements they do) but if Your Soil actually needs it added. Do you know that your soil is deficient in it?

[Snoop Puss]

I haven't done a test, no. But I haven't added any boron as a trace element for ten years. I used to grow amazing brassicas, but in the last few years I've been very disappointed: caulis with tiny curds with hard brown patches and cabbages that show the symptoms of boron deficiency. Of 40 cabbages, probably only half a dozen have really been satisfactory, and of maybe 55 caulis, none have been a normal size and most have bronze patches on them (not the usual discoloured patches due to exposure to the sun). Given the type of soil we have, the flood and the symptoms, boron deficiency looks most likely.

The only testers I've seen here are for pH, P, K and N. Having looked about the Web, it seems the main test is apply boron and see what the results are. I'm certainly aware that it should be applied in small doses. I'm proposing only to do the brassica and root beds.