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  • Tomatoes...again

    I was looking at my potted toms today and they look like I feel, wilted. I've never had leaves so long, some just over 2ft long and wide so I thought they are taking much of the water so I pinched some halfway to shorten them. I then looked at a gardening encyclopedia from 1982 written by two fellas with lots of letters after their names. They suggest stripping All the lower leaves up to each truss to aerate the plants, and aid ripening.
    I'm thinking this will also reduce the amount of water taken up too. It looks drastic in the illustration but might give it a go on some of the plants that droop most often.
    Any comments on this course of action before I get the knives out?
    Rob

  • #2
    I remove the leaves below the first set truss on cordons - and I've already done it this year. The plants still look wilted because of the heat.
    Don't use knives. bend the leaves up against the main stem and they should detach cleanly - but only when the plant isn't wilted - or you'll damage them.
    Last edited by veggiechicken; 28-06-2018, 04:19 PM.

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    • #3
      Wouldn't have used a knife...honest.
      I'll water tonight and tomorrow morning remove non drooping leaves up to the first truss. Never thought about them being full of water first, good tip.
      I might get adventurous and go higher on a couple to see the results but only couple.
      Possible thunderstorms on Sunday, hope it happens then back to this.
      Rob

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      • #4
        I remove a lot of leaves but not this early in the season,I’ve been removing some leaves below the first truss to get the leaves away from the ground & it helps speed up the ripening if there is fruit. After the first truss of tomatoes has all been picked I remove a few more leaves under the next truss of fruit,it’s a slow process not removing that many leaves in one go. The tomatoes use sugars from the leaves,root etc they are good to have,I haven’t noticed a difference with removal of leaves affecting the plants water use,the sun we’re having dries the pots out quickly,you could use a mulch of grass/straw to help.
        Location : Essex

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        • #5
          I've partially stripped some that were very crinkled and they look strange, like something from a horror film.
          The ones that are not too frazzled I've left to compare how they perform.
          Cuor di bue are leading the race so far, ildi had flowers for ages and no sign of toms. Ailsa craig and the rest plodding along. High hopes for a good crop this year.
          Thanks for all the help and will update when the top leaves get back their flexibility as some are like leather at the mo.
          Rob
          Last edited by robbra; 29-06-2018, 07:50 AM.

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          • #6
            One thing I'd like to ask.
            I've learnt on here that planting them up to the seed leaves will produce more roots. There is such a gap between those leaves and the first real leaves could they be planted nearly to those and produce even better roots or would it cause rotting or other problems?
            Rob

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            • #7
              Plant them as deep as you want - tomatoes are good at forming roots on the stems and naturally lie on the soil and root into it at intervals. We stake them to keep the fruit off the floor and clean. They should be fine buried upto the first true leaves.
              A life is like a garden. Perfect moments can be had, but not preserved, except in memory. LLAP. - Leonard Nimoy

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              • #8
                Thanks P,
                Good information although will have to wait 'till next year to put it into practice.
                Another piece into my brain.
                Rob

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