Couchgrass, Glyphosate & Digging

[seniab]

Hello All,

whilst I originally intended to go completely organic with the plot, this soon proved too much and so (no doubt to the great disappointment of Bob Flowerdew) I applied Roundup.

This has killled back the couchgrass, and I am now single digging to take out the roots and remains of the brambles as well.

This may be a bit like asking how long a piece of string is, but how thorough do i need to be with taking out the roots? I have read that couch will come back from the tiniest fragment left in the soil, but surely if I've used glyphosate, the root is dead as well?

Will I get away with simply turning the soil over and removing the majority of the roots I see, or am I just storing up a problem for the future?

Cheers,

Seniab

[skegblade]

You need to get every bit of root Seniab. Couch grass and bindweed will regenerate from the tiniest piece of root left behind. The upside is, if you miss any, there'll be less to remove next time.

Phil

[rustylady]

Get as much of the roots out as you can. Glyphosate promises to kill the roots too, but it may need several applications and a lot of time. However if you dig thoroughly and remove what you can, if it does re-grow it should be a lot easier to remove (small plants, rather than a tangled mass)

[Two_Sheds]

You will get it all out, but expect it to take time. Remember that no plant will withstand repeated defoliation (or else why would it have leaves?), so pull up every little bit of weed that you see, don't leave them to grow strong.
I have cleared my plot of perennial monsters in a little over 2 years, no chemicals at all, no double-digging, just perseverance.

[lainey lou]

I have cleared my plot of perennial monsters in a little over 2 years, no chemicals at all, no double-digging, just perseverance.

That's really encouraging news for those of us who wonder if we're ever gonna get there!

[sewer rat]

I wouldn't worry too much about using glyphosate. As Rustylady says repeated applications may be necessary - normally at 6 week intervals. The first application should kill all but the most stubborn of the weeds and their roots but will undoubtedly miss some, especially if the initial weed cover was thick. Also bear in mind that Glyphosate contrary to popular belief does not kill everything - bit like Domestos - kills 99% stone dead.

[Protea]

I found that glyphosate works better on couch when applied with a little adjuvant - i think it has water repellent leaves! a drop of washing up liquid will suffice. Also - the time of year is important for effective weed killing, couch is most susceptible in early autumn when it is drawing its food reserves into its roots for over winter - this action helps draw the glyphosate down too, although with such an extensive root system its never going to get all of it - try to get it all out or re-apply the glyphosate when new growth appears.

[bubblewrap]

When I took over my lottie (300sq yds) in Sept 2005 in was mainly covered in cooch grass I dug over the whole plot over the next 9 months to rid myself of it. Killing the tops is no good you have to get rid of the roots & digging is the only answer.But it is worth it in the long run.
And yes it is hard work
PS I don't like using chemicals of any kind on my lottie.

[pigletwillie]

We use no chemicals at all AFTER plot clearance and only used glysophate as a one hit wonder to get rid of most of the problem.

I personally did not have a year or two spare to clear our plots so took the pragmatic option and sprayed. The net result was that the whole plot was ready for cultivation and whilst a few bits of couch came back they were easily hand weeded out. After three years of full use of my plots I can honestly say that it was the best option for us.

As chemicals go glysophate is fairly easy on the environment with few residues that lurk around more than a few days, the days of the real heavy weight weedkillers full of heavy metals and organo-phosphates are long gone. I would go as far as to say that by using glysophate you are exposing yourself to less chemicicals than if you eat a few pounds of shop bought apples. Used correctly it only needs one go perhaps two in a badly infested situation.

The chemicals to watch out for are the insecticides, as they do have a few nasties in and are non selective and thus kill the good guys as well as the bad ones, a bit like the American air force really.

You choice is down to your personal stance and how quickly you want to get growing stuff.

[Snadger]

Just to add to what Piglet has already mentioned......... insecticides are normally applied as a drench, so much more of the chemical needs to be applied compared to herbicides which only need a small amount of the active ingredient to achieve results!