Chris Bonnett, founder of Gardening Express, reveals five key jobs for your plot this month
As spring slowly approaches, dedicated gardeners eagerly anticipate the promise of a new growing season. And, whether you’re a seasoned horticulturist or just beginning to cultivate your green thumb, there’s plenty you can do on your plot this month. To help you on your way, we’ve gathered essential insights to help you kickstart a thriving garden that will bear fruit – quite literally – in the warmer months ahead. So, grab your gardening gloves and let’s embark on this February journey to set the stage for a bountiful harvest…
Job #1 - Plant Bare Root Fruit Trees
Best planted from November to March, so long as the ground is not frozen and there are no frost warnings ahead, bare-root fruit trees are a great way to add to your fruit garden. Planting during cool, damp weather is recommended for root system establishment. Before planting, soak roots for 24-48 hours and maintain a planting distance of 2.4 meters or more. Dig a suitable hole, ensuring the graft mark is above the soil, and insert a stake before planting. Mix together compost and topsoil, firming the soil around the roots. Water the tree generously and use rubber ties for support, checking and adjusting ties and stakes regularly.
Thinking about potting bare-root fruit trees? Use a large container with adequate compost and water generously. Feed the tree with fruit tree fertiliser and provide water consistently. In patio planters, use multi-purpose compost, ensuring proper drainage.
Not sure which bare-root fruit trees to go for? Have a look at these collections from Gardening Express:
- Grow Your Own Fruit Trees - The Autumn Abundance Orchard Bundle - 5 Different Trees
Shop all Gardening Express Fruit Trees here
Want some more advice? Check out this guide here for more information about planting bare-root fruit trees.
Job #2 - Prune Existing Fruit Trees
Pruning fruit trees in late winter or early spring, typically in February, enhances tree health, fruit production and structure. Essential tools include pruning shears, a hand saw for larger branches and an optional pruning sealer for larger cuts.
Begin by assessing the tree’s overall health and removing dead or diseased branches to prevent disease from spreading. Eliminate suckers and water sprouts to redirect energy towards fruit production. Thin out crowded branches for better air circulation and access to sunlight.
Shape the tree as needed, which is especially important for training young trees. Preserve fruit-bearing spurs and focus on encouraging the growth of main scaffold branches, the structural framework of the tree. You can also apply pruning sealer to protect against diseases, particularly in disease-prone regions.
Remember to clean up pruned material to prevent disease and pest spread. Timing is crucial, with late winter/early spring being ideal before active growth but after the risk of severe cold has passed. Remember that specific pruning strategies may vary based on the fruit tree type, so refer to guidelines tailored to your particular tree.
Job #3 - Plant or Prune Blueberry Bushes
If you’re looking to introduce blueberry plants into your plot, now is a good time. The optimal planting period is during dormancy, typically between autumn and spring. However, planting can occur at any time, excluding hot, dry weather or frozen ground conditions. When selecting a planting site, choose a sheltered location with well-drained, moisture-retentive soil that avoids summer drying and winter waterlogging. For optimal results, a sunny spot is preferable, contributing to a bountiful crop and vibrant autumn leaf colour.
When planting in the ground, position blueberries at the same level as their prior growth and space them 1–1.5m (3¼–5ft) apart, depending on the variety’s mature size. Following planting, apply a generous layer of ericaceous mulch, such as composted or chipped pine bark or leafmould, while leaving a gap around the stem base.
For container planting, use ericaceous (acidic), soil-based, peat-free compost. Opt for a container with a minimum diameter of 30cm (12in) for young plants and 45–50cm (18–20in) for larger specimens.
February is also a good time to prune blueberry plants as this allows for easier differentiation between fruit-producing buds and those forming leaves. By eliminating unwanted stems, twiggy growth, and strategically trimming back older stems, the plant is stimulated to yield more fruit. This practice also fosters a balanced mix of old, middle-aged, and young stems, ensuring the long-term health and productivity of the plant. In colder regions, pruning addresses issues with unripened new stems, contributing to the overall well-being of the blueberry plant.
Looking to buy a new blueberry plant for your plot? Shop blueberry bushes from Gardening Express here.
Job #4 - Force Rhubarb
Forcing rhubarb in February is a technique used to harvest rhubarb earlier in the year than it would naturally grow. Rhubarb is a perennial plant that typically starts growing in the spring. However, by forcing rhubarb, gardeners can enjoy an earlier harvest, usually starting in late winter or early spring.
Here’s how forcing rhubarb works:
Crown Division: Rhubarb plants have large, fleshy crowns. Gardeners can divide these crowns in late autumn or early winter.
Forcing Environment: The divided crowns are then placed in a warm and dark environment, such as a shed or covered with a pot or bucket. This simulates the conditions of spring and encourages the rhubarb to grow earlier than it would in the natural outdoor environment.
Harvesting: As the rhubarb shoots grow in the dark, they elongate and become pale in colour. This is because they lack exposure to sunlight.
Forced rhubarb is often more prized for its tenderness and vibrant colour. But remember that not all varieties of rhubarb are suitable for forcing, and some may not respond well to this process.
Looking for some new rhubarb plants? See the range of rhubarb plants from Gardening Express here.
Job #5 - Start Chitting Potatoes
Some people may chit their potatoes in February as part of the pre-planting process. Chitting involves encouraging potato seedlings to sprout before planting them in the soil. This practice is believed to promote earlier and more vigorous growth, leading to higher yields when the potatoes are eventually harvested. The process typically involves placing the seed potatoes in a cool, light-filled area to encourage the development of short, sturdy sprouts.
Keen to get cracking yourself? Find the range of seed potatoes from Gardening Express here.
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